Difference between revisions of "Finish"

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==Finish==
 
==Finish==
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The finishing of a leather determines the appearance of the final surface of the leather and the [[leather quality|surface properties]]. This includes [[leather colour|coloring]], [[Waterproofing leather|waterproofing]], [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|wax dressings]], but also the mechanical processing steps such as the [[Ironing leather|ironing]] or [[Embossed leather|embossing]] of the leather.
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Finishing determines the appearance of the final surface of the leather and the [[leather quality|surface properties]]. This includes [[leather colour|colouring]], [[Waterproofing leather|waterproofing]], [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|wax dressings]], but also mechanical processing stages such as [[Ironing leather|ironing]] or [[Embossed leather|embossing]] of the leather.
  
  
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==Finishing with pigment containing leather colours==
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==Finishing with pigment-containing leather colours==
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To make [[leather]] more [[leather damages|durable]], more [[leather cleaner|stain-resistant]] and permanently [[Waterproofing leather|water-repellent]], a layer of a binder-pigment-mixture is applied to surface of [[smooth leather]] that has already been completely precoloured with [[leather colour|aniline dyes]]. This color coat is also called finish or pigmentation. [[Leather suits|Motorcycle suits]], but also many [[Leather jacket|leisure jackets]], [[leather shoes|shoes]], [[car leather|car]], [[leather furniture|furniture]] and [[Leather handbags|bags]] made of [[smooth leather]] have this protective color layer. These leathers are then referred to as pigmented leather or finished leather.
+
To make [[leather]] more [[leather damages|durable]], more [[leather cleaner|stain-resistant]] and permanently [[Waterproofing leather|water-repellent]], a layer of a binder-pigment-mixture is applied to the surface of [[smooth leather]] that has already been completely pre-coloured with [[leather colour|aniline dyes]]. This colour coat is also called finish or pigmentation. [[Leather suits|Motorcycle suits]], but also many [[Leather jacket|leisure jackets]], [[leather shoes|shoes]], [[car leather|car]], [[leather furniture|furniture]] and [[Leather handbags|bags]] made of [[smooth leather]] have this protective colour layer. These leathers are then referred to as pigmented leather or finished leather.
  
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[[Smooth leather]] without such colour layer is called [[aniline leather]]. Leather with a very thin finish is called [[aniline leather, refined]] or [[Semi-aniline|semianiline leather]]. Smooth leather with a layer thickness of more than 0.15 millimeters in color or foil must be declared as [[Coated leather - Laminated leather|coated leather]] in Europe.
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[[Smooth leather]] without this colour layer is called [[aniline leather]]. Leather with a very thin finish is called [[aniline leather, refined]] or [[Semi-aniline|semi-aniline leather]]. Smooth leather with a finish layer of more than 0.15 millimetres in thickness - whether colour or foil -  must be declared as [[Coated leather - Laminated leather|coated leather]] in Europe.
  
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The advantage of [[aniline leather]] is a [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|warm feel and naturalness]]. Disadvantage is the sensitivity. Pigmented leather [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|feels colder and firmer]], but is significantly easier to [[leather cleaner|clean]] and [[leather care|care]] and less sensitive. Pigmented leathers also have lower [[Breathability of leather|breathability poperties]] than [[porous leather]].
+
The advantage of [[aniline leather]] is a [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|warm feel and naturalness]] and the main disadvantage is the sensitivity. Pigmented leather [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|feels colder and firmer]], but is significantly easier to [[leather cleaner|clean]] and [[leather care|care for]] and less sensitive. Pigmented leathers also have lower [[Breathability of leather|breathability properties]] than [[porous leather]].
  
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There are also leather which have an [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|oil coating or wax coating]]. For these leathers, uncoloured or dyed waxes and / or oils are applied to the leather surface. Such leather is called [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|pull-up leather]].
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There are also leathers which have an [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|oil coating or wax coating]]. For these leathers, uncoloured or dyed waxes and/or oils are applied to the leather surface. Such leather is called [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|pull-up leather]].
  
  
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==Primer - Finish / Top Coat==
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==Primer - Finish/Top Coat==
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A [[primer]] is first applied as an adhesion promoter. The top coat, a kind of clear protective coating, is then applied to the subsequent color layer. Top Coats protects the [[leather colour|binder color]] from [[leather damages|abrasion]] and [[leather damages#Dye transfer on leather|discolouration]] and determines the degree of [[Gloss of leather|gloss]] and the [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|haptic]]. [[Crosslinker|Crosslinkers]] provide [[leather quality|improved fastnesses]] as additives. In case of particularly [[Gloss of leather|matt]] leather, a duller is added to the top coat and / or to the [[leather colour|colour]]. Vehicle leather is often very matt and leather-covered [[Leather dashboard|dashboards]] must be particularly matt because of the risk of [[Gloss of leather|reflections]] in the front screen.
+
A [[primer]] is first applied to promote adhesion. The top coat, a kind of clear protective coating, is then applied to the subsequent colour layer. Top coats protect the [[leather colour|binder colour]] from [[leather damages|abrasion]] and [[leather damages#Dye transfer on leather|discolouration]] and determine the degree of [[Gloss of leather|gloss]] and the [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|haptic]]. [[Crosslinker|Crosslinkers]] provide [[leather quality|improved fastness]] as additives. In case of particularly [[Gloss of leather|matt]] leather, a duller is added to the top coat and/or to the [[leather colour|colour]]. Vehicle leather is often very matt and leather-covered [[Leather dashboard|dashboards]] must be particularly matt because of the risk of [[Gloss of leather|reflections]] in the windscreen.
  
  
 
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''Structure of the [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour|leather colouring]] and finish. Without finish = [[aniline leather]].''<br></p>
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''Structure of the [[Leather colour|leather colouring]] and finish. Without finish = [[aniline leather]].''<br></p>
 
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[[Car leather]] was not [[leather colour#Dyed leather|dyed through]] until the 70s, 80s. With some leathers, this lead to a beautiful [[Antique Leather - Vintage Leather#Leather patina|patina]].
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Bis in die 70er, 80er Jahre wurden Autoleder nicht [[Lederfarbe|durchgefärbt]]. Experten bezeichnen diese Leder als "'''kopfgefärbte Leder'''". Bei manchen Ledern führt die '''Kopffärbung''' bei Gebrauchsspuren zu einer schönen [[Patina]].  
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''Typische Kopffärbung - Das [[pflanzengerbung|pflanzlich gegerbte Leder]] schimmert bräunlich durch.''<br></p>
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''Typical top pigmentation on un-dyed [[vegetable-tanned leather]] shimmers brownish when getting a [[Antique Leather - Vintage Leather#Leather patina|patina]].''<br></p>
 
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Depending on the thickness of the applied pigment colouration, the [[smooth leather]] is referred to differently. No colour layer: [[Aniline leather]]. Little colour, but [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|hair pores]] still recognisable: [[Aniline leather, refined]] or [[Semi-aniline|semi-aniline leather]]. Much more colour and [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|hair pores]] only little or not recognisable: Pigmented smooth leather.
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Je nach dicke der aufgetragenen Pigmentschicht werden die [[Glattleder]] unterschiedlich bezeichnet. Keine [[Lederfarbe|Deckfarbe]]: [[Anilinleder]]. Wenig Farbe, aber [[Haarporen]] noch gut erkennbar: [[Semianilinleder]]. Viel Farbe und Haarporen nur wenig oder garnicht erkennbar: Pigmentiertes [[Glattleder]].  
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Reines [[Anilinleder]] - [[Haarporen]] sind gut erkennbar und keine Farbschicht auf dem Leder''<br></p>
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''Pure [[aniline leather]]: [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Pores]] are completely visible and there is no finish on the leather.''<br></p>
 
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[[Semianilinleder]] - [[Haarporen]] sind gut erkennbar, aber eine dünne Farbschicht auf dem Leder''<br></p>
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''[[Semi-aniline|Semi-aniline leather]]: [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Pores]] are clearly visible, but a thin [[Leather colour|layer of paint]] is on the leather surface.''<br></p>
 
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Pigmentiertes [[Glattleder]] - [[Haarporen]] sind kaum erkennbar, ein dicke Farbschicht ist auf dem Leder''<br></p>
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''[[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Pores]] are hardly distinguishable. A stronger [[Leather colour|colour layer]] is on the leather surface. Only a leather consultant or expert can investigate whether this leather may still be referred to as [[Semi-aniline|semi-aniline leather]].''<br></p>
 
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Pigmentiertes [[Glattleder]] - [[Haarporen]] sind nicht mehr erkennbar, ein dicke Farbschicht ist auf dem Leder''<br></p>
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''Pigmented [[Smooth leather|smooth leather]]: [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Pores]]
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are no longer distinguishable. The leather has a thick [[Leather colour|layer of paint]].''<br></p>
 
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==Problems with deficient finish==
 
==Problems with deficient finish==
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Die Zurichtung pigmentierter Leder kann variieren. Sie besteht aber meist aus einer Grundierung, einer Farbschicht und dem Top Coat (auch Appretur oder Finish genannt). Meist werden diese Schichten mit einem [[Vernetzer]] zusätzlich stabilisiert. Im Fall fehlerhafter Vorgehensweise kann das zu verschiedensten Problemen führen.  
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The finish of a pigmented leather can vary. However, it usually consists of a [[primer]], a colour coat and the top coat. Usually, these layers are additionally stabilised with a [[crosslinker]]. In case of faulty procedures, this can lead to various problems.
 +
 
 +
* If the application area is provided with a type of release agent (fats, oils, silicones, etc.), [[Colour separation of leather|colour separation]] may occur over time.
 +
* The finish consists of several layers. If the waiting time between the steps is too long, it can affect the adhesion. The separation is then not complete, but between individual layers. The cause may be release agents, which are used to prevent adhesive bonds between layered hides. The sooner the next finish layer is applied, the better is the binding.
 +
* If the applied finish is too soft, it is [[leather damages|wear-sensitive]]. Scratches and abrasions can occur. Moisture and fats can enhance such effects. Since leather should ideally be soft and warm to touch, the tanner must find the best solution.
 +
* If the applied top coat is too thin, the colour rubs off.
 +
* If the layers are applied too thickly, the leather becomes very [[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|plastic-like and feels unnatural and cold]].
 +
* If the [[crosslinker]] is missing, the finishing is susceptible to [[leather damages|wear]].
 +
* If the finish is too hard, this can lead to cracking. When the leather is bent, there are microbreaks which make the leather appear greyish. Usually in the depths of the [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain]].
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[[bild:Cracking-Finish-Leather-01.jpg|250px]]
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[[bild:Cracking-Finish-Leather-02.jpg|250px]]
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''A greyish cracking in the folds of the leather appear when the chosen binder is too hard.''<br></p>
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* Ist die Auftragsfäche vor dem Auftrag der Zurichtung mit einer Art Trennmittel versehen ([[Fetten|Fette]], Öle, Silikone ect.), dann kann es mit der Zeit zu [[Farbablösung auf Leder|Farbablösungen]] kommen.  
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* Too soft or unstable binders can lead to stickiness of the surface. [[Patent leather]] tends to stickiness when getting older. But also sunlight can intensify this effect with sensitive leathers.
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* Die Zurichtung besteht aus mehrere Schichten. Sind die Wartezeiten zwischen den Schritten zu groß, kann es die Haftung der einen auf der anderen Schicht beeinträchtigen. Die [[Farbablösung auf Leder|Ablösung]] erfolgt dann nicht komplett, sondern zwischen einzelnen Schichten. Ursache kann eine Zwischenlagerung sein, bei der Trennmittel verwendet werden, die Verklebungen verhindern sollen. Grundsätzlich gilt aber immer, je frischer die letzte Schicht ist, desto besser haftet der folgende Schichtauftrag.  
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* If a leather is very [[Gloss of leather|dull]], it can appear greyish.
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* Ist die aufgetragene Zurichtung zu weich, ist diese [[Lederschäden#Gebrauchsspuren auf Leder|verschleißempfindich]]. Es kann zu Kratzern und Abschürfungen kommen oder die Zurichtung ist nicht [[Lederqualität#Testgeräte|abriebfest]]. Insbesondere [[Imprägnierung|Feuchtigkeit]] und [[Lederschäden#Fettstellen auf Leder|Fette]] können solche Effekte verstärken. Da ein Leder im Idealfall [[Haptik|weich und warm]] sein sollte, muss der [[Gerber]] die goldene Mitte finden.  
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* If the pigments are UV-sensitive, the leather [[Colour fastness - Light fastness of leather|fades]].
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* Ist der Top Coat zu dünn aufgetragen, kann es zu Farbabrieb kommen.
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* Sensitive binders and other chemicals used in finishing can turn yellowish.
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* Werden alle Schichten zu dick aufgetragen, wird das Leder sehr plastikartig und [[Haptik|fühlt]] sich unnatürlich und kalt an.  
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* Contamination in the colour or on the leather during paint application or during drying may be visible when dry.
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* Fehlt der [[Vernetzer]], ist die Zurichtung [[Lederschäden#Gebrauchsspuren auf Leder|verschleißempfindlich]].  
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* A too thick colour layer on leathers which tend to [[looseness]], reinforces this effect.
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* Ist die Zurichtung zu hart, kann das zu Graubruch führen. Beim Knicken des Leders gibt es Mikrobrüche, die das Leder gräulich erscheinen lassen. Meist in den Tiefen der [[Narbung]].  
+
* [[leather colour|Aniline dyes]] in the finish can [[Flamingo effect|migrate]] or [[Dye transfer from leather|transfer dye]].
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* Zu weiche oder instabile Bindemittel können zu Klebrigkeit der Oberfläche führen. [[Lackleder]] neigen dazu, wenn diese älter werden. Aber auch Sonne kann diesen Effekt bei empfindlichen Ledern verstärkt herbeiführen.
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* Amines of upholstery foams or NOx (nitrogen, for example, by exhaust gases from forklift trucks in leather storage) can produce yellowish changes on light finishes.
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* Wird ein Leder sehr [[Glanz|matt]] eingestellt, kann es zu einem Grauschleier kommen.
+
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* Sind die verwendeten Pigmente zu [[Lichtechtheit|UV-empfindlich]], bleicht das Leder aus.
+
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* Empfindliche Bindemittel und andere Chemikalien der Zurichtung können vergilben.
+
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* Verunreinigungen auf dem Leder während des Farbauftrags oder bei der Trocknung, können als Einschlüsse sichtbar werden.
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* Eine dicke Schichtstärke auf zur [[Losnarbigkeit]] neigenden Ledern verstärkt diesen Effekt.  
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* [[Lederfarbe#Durchgefärbte Leder|Anilinfarbstoffe]] in der Zurichtung können [[Flamingoeffekt|migrieren]] oder [[Abfärbende Leder|abfärben]].
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* Amine aus Polsterschäumen oder NOX (Stickstoff, z.B. durch Abgase von Staplern in Lederlager) können gelbliche Veränderungen auf hellen [[Zurichtung|Zurichtungen]] erzeugen.  
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''The leather production in a modern [[tannery]].''
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''Leather production in a modern [[tannery]].''
 
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== [[Leather videos]] about the peculiarities of [[metallic leather|metallic effects]] on leather. ==
 
== [[Leather videos]] about the peculiarities of [[metallic leather|metallic effects]] on leather. ==
 
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! bgcolor=#eeeeee | Process steps in the [[leather production]]
 
! bgcolor=#eeeeee | Process steps in the [[leather production]]
 
|-
 
|-
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| bgcolor=#ffffff align=center | [[storage of leather|storage]] - [[soaking]] - [[Liming - Leather Tanning|liming]] - [[Fleshing - Making of leather|fleshing]] - [[Split leather|splitting]] - [[pickling]] - [[Tanning leather|tanning]] - [[neutralising]] - [[Drying leather|withering]] - [[Leather production#Sorting|sorting]] - [[shaving]] - [[Leather production#Dyeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring|yeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring]] - [[Drying leather|drying]] - [[finish]] - [[softening]] - [[Leather quality|final check]]
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| bgcolor=#ffffff align=center | [[storage of leather|Storage]] - [[soaking]] - [[Liming - Leather Tanning|liming]] - [[Fleshing - Making of leather|fleshing]] - [[Split leather|splitting]] - [[pickling]] - [[Tanning leather|tanning]] - [[neutralising]] - [[Drying leather|withering]] - [[Leather production#Sorting|sorting]] - [[shaving]] - [[Leather production#Dyeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring|dyeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring]] - [[Drying leather|drying]] - [[finish]] - [[softening]] - [[Leather quality|final check]]
 
|}
 
|}
 
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Revision as of 20:07, 15 June 2019

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


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Finish

Finishing determines the appearance of the final surface of the leather and the surface properties. This includes colouring, waterproofing, wax dressings, but also mechanical processing stages such as ironing or embossing of the leather.


Finishing with pigment-containing leather colours

To make leather more durable, more stain-resistant and permanently water-repellent, a layer of a binder-pigment-mixture is applied to the surface of smooth leather that has already been completely pre-coloured with aniline dyes. This colour coat is also called finish or pigmentation. Motorcycle suits, but also many leisure jackets, shoes, car, furniture and bags made of smooth leather have this protective colour layer. These leathers are then referred to as pigmented leather or finished leather.

Smooth leather without this colour layer is called aniline leather. Leather with a very thin finish is called aniline leather, refined or semi-aniline leather. Smooth leather with a finish layer of more than 0.15 millimetres in thickness - whether colour or foil - must be declared as coated leather in Europe.

The advantage of aniline leather is a warm feel and naturalness and the main disadvantage is the sensitivity. Pigmented leather feels colder and firmer, but is significantly easier to clean and care for and less sensitive. Pigmented leathers also have lower breathability properties than porous leather.

There are also leathers which have an oil coating or wax coating. For these leathers, uncoloured or dyed waxes and/or oils are applied to the leather surface. Such leather is called pull-up leather.


Primer - Finish/Top Coat

A primer is first applied to promote adhesion. The top coat, a kind of clear protective coating, is then applied to the subsequent colour layer. Top coats protect the binder colour from abrasion and discolouration and determine the degree of gloss and the haptic. Crosslinkers provide improved fastness as additives. In case of particularly matt leather, a duller is added to the top coat and/or to the colour. Vehicle leather is often very matt and leather-covered dashboards must be particularly matt because of the risk of reflections in the windscreen.


Video about different kinds of smooth leather.


Leather-Colour-Aniline-01.jpg

Structure of the leather colouring and finish. Without finish = aniline leather.

 

Wassertropfen-auf-Leder-03.jpg

Wassertropfen-auf-Leder-05.jpg Pigmentierung-gepraegt-002.jpg

A water drop on a pigmented smooth leather runs off. The pores of the leather are closed.


Pigmentierung-01.jpg Pigmentierung-02.jpg

Pigmentierung-03.jpg Pigmentierung-04.jpg

In the leather production, the pigmentation is applied by means of rotating spray guns.


The application of a pigment leather colour by leather repair companies is carried out manually with a spray gun.

 

Car leather was not dyed through until the 70s, 80s. With some leathers, this lead to a beautiful patina.


Gebrauchsspuren-01.jpg Gebrauchsspuren-05.jpg

Typical top pigmentation on un-dyed vegetable-tanned leather shimmers brownish when getting a patina.

 

Depending on the thickness of the applied pigment colouration, the smooth leather is referred to differently. No colour layer: Aniline leather. Little colour, but hair pores still recognisable: Aniline leather, refined or semi-aniline leather. Much more colour and hair pores only little or not recognisable: Pigmented smooth leather.


Anilin-Poren-01.jpg Anilin-Poren-02.jpg

Pure aniline leather: Pores are completely visible and there is no finish on the leather.

 

Semianilin-Poren-01.jpg E- Zwischenlager Fotoverzeichnis-Firma DATA2-FO Lederarten Semianilin Semianilin-Poren-01.jpg

Semi-aniline leather: Pores are clearly visible, but a thin layer of paint is on the leather surface.

 

Pigmentiert-01.jpg Pigmentiert-02.jpg

Pores are hardly distinguishable. A stronger colour layer is on the leather surface. Only a leather consultant or expert can investigate whether this leather may still be referred to as semi-aniline leather.

 

Pigmentiert-03.jpg Pigmentiert-04.jpg

Pigmented smooth leather: Pores are no longer distinguishable. The leather has a thick layer of paint.

 



Problems with deficient finish

The finish of a pigmented leather can vary. However, it usually consists of a primer, a colour coat and the top coat. Usually, these layers are additionally stabilised with a crosslinker. In case of faulty procedures, this can lead to various problems.

  • If the application area is provided with a type of release agent (fats, oils, silicones, etc.), colour separation may occur over time.
  • The finish consists of several layers. If the waiting time between the steps is too long, it can affect the adhesion. The separation is then not complete, but between individual layers. The cause may be release agents, which are used to prevent adhesive bonds between layered hides. The sooner the next finish layer is applied, the better is the binding.
  • If the applied finish is too soft, it is wear-sensitive. Scratches and abrasions can occur. Moisture and fats can enhance such effects. Since leather should ideally be soft and warm to touch, the tanner must find the best solution.
  • If the applied top coat is too thin, the colour rubs off.
  • If the layers are applied too thickly, the leather becomes very plastic-like and feels unnatural and cold.
  • If the crosslinker is missing, the finishing is susceptible to wear.
  • If the finish is too hard, this can lead to cracking. When the leather is bent, there are microbreaks which make the leather appear greyish. Usually in the depths of the grain.


Cracking-Finish-Leather-01.jpg Cracking-Finish-Leather-02.jpg

A greyish cracking in the folds of the leather appear when the chosen binder is too hard.


  • Too soft or unstable binders can lead to stickiness of the surface. Patent leather tends to stickiness when getting older. But also sunlight can intensify this effect with sensitive leathers.
  • If a leather is very dull, it can appear greyish.
  • If the pigments are UV-sensitive, the leather fades.
  • Sensitive binders and other chemicals used in finishing can turn yellowish.
  • Contamination in the colour or on the leather during paint application or during drying may be visible when dry.
  • A too thick colour layer on leathers which tend to looseness, reinforces this effect.
  • Aniline dyes in the finish can migrate or transfer dye.
  • Amines of upholstery foams or NOx (nitrogen, for example, by exhaust gases from forklift trucks in leather storage) can produce yellowish changes on light finishes.


Additional information




Videos about the leather production


Leather production in a modern tannery.


Leather videos about the peculiarities of metallic effects on leather.


Process steps in the leather production
Storage - soaking - liming - fleshing - splitting - pickling - tanning - neutralising - withering - sorting - shaving - dyeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring - drying - finish - softening - final check


Tanning methods
Chrome tanning - Vegetable-tanned leather - Synthetic tanning - Tanning with fats and oils


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