Difference between revisions of "Aniline leather, refined"

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(Created page with "<p align=center> 300px </p> <p align=center> 500px </p> ==Die Lücke zwischen Anilinleder und Semia...")
 
 
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[[bild:Dubai-Ledersessel-03.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Leather_chair_aniline-03.jpg|500px]]
 
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</p>
  
  
==Die Lücke zwischen [[Anilinleder]] und [[Semianilinleder]]==
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==The gap between [[aniline leather]] and [[Semi-aniline|semi aniline leather]]==
Reine [[Anilinleder]] (Anilinleder naturbelassen) dürfen laut der Begriffsdefinition dieser Lederart keine pigmentierte Oberfläche haben. Selbst eine minimale [[Zurichtung|Pigmentierung]] ist nicht zulässig. Daher sind Anilinleder fleckenempfindlich. Sobald eine Pigmentierung erfolgt, ist das Leder aber kein Anilinleder mehr. Wird nur minimal pigmentiert, damit das Leder möglichst [[Haptik|natürlich]] bleibt, erfüllt das Leder nicht die Mindestanforderungen für die Lederart [[Semianilinleder]]. Zwischen [[Anilinleder]] und [[Semianilinleder]] gab es bisher keine normierte Lederart.  
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The lack of a defining standard between pure aniline leather and semi aniline leather has led to a certain amount of confusion. Pure [[aniline leather]] must not have a [[finish|pigmented surface]] of any kind, not even a minimal one, according to the definition of this [[Types of leather|type of leather]]. Therefore, aniline leather is susceptible to stains. As soon as any pigmentation is applied, it is no longer classed as aniline leather. If the leather is only minimally pigmented so that it remains as natural as possible, the leather does not meet the minimum requirements for the leather type [[Semi-aniline|semi-aniline leather]] either.  
  
  
 
<p align=center>
 
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[[bild:Lederfärbung-03.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Leather-Colour-Aniline-01.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''[[Anilinleder]] düfen keine [[Zurichtung|Pigmentzurichtung]] haben.''<br></p>
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''[[Aniline leather]] is not allowed to have a [[finish|pigment coating]].''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
Dieser Konflikt tritt meist bei [[Möbelleder|Möbelledern]] auf. Auf der einen Seite wünschen die [[Möbelleder|Ledermöbelhersteller]] die beste [[Lederqualität]], also Anilinleder, aber andererseits soll das Anilinleder dann nicht [[Lichtechtheit|ausbleichen]], möglichst wenig [[Hautschäden|Naturmerkmale]] und [[Partie|Farbschwankungen]] aufweisen und nicht [[Offenporige Leder|fleckenempfindlich]] sein.  
+
This conflict occurs mostly in [[leather furniture|upholstery leathers]]. Understandably, the leather furniture manufacturers want the best leather quality ([[aniline leather]]). But, at the same time, they want the aniline leather not to [[Colour fastness - Light fastness of leather|fade]], not to have [[natural markings on leather]] and as few colour deviations as possible and not be [[Porous leather|susceptible to stains]].
  
  
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[[bild:Wassertropfen-003.jpg|125px]]
 
[[bild:Wassertropfen-003.jpg|125px]]
 
[[bild:Wassertropfen-004.jpg|125px]]
 
[[bild:Wassertropfen-004.jpg|125px]]
[[bild:Wassertropfen-auf-Leder-01.jpg|125px]]
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[[bild:Waterproofing_leather-01.jpg|125px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Bei Anilinledern dringt Flüssigkeit sofort ein. Eine leichte [[Zurichtung]] verbessert den Schutz. <br></p>
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''In [[aniline leather]] liquid penetrates immediately. A light [[finish]] improves protection.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
Um dieses Dilemma zu lösen, haben manche Gerbereien dünne Pigmentschichten auf das Leder aufgetragen. Damit wollte man dem Anilinleder möglichst nahe sein, aber trotzdem einen leichten Schutz auftragen, um den berechtigten Wünschen des Möbelhandels und der Endkunden gerecht zu werden. Wurde das bei Untersuchungen festgestellt, entstand der Vorwurf, kein hochwertiges Anilinleder verkauft zu haben. Wurde es dann auf Semianilinleder geprüft, entsprach es nicht den Mindestanforderungen an die [[Lichtechtheit|Lichtechtheiten]] oder [[Lederqualität#Testgeräte|Reibfestigkeit]].  
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To solve this dilemma, some [[tannery|tanneries]] have applied thin [[finish|layers of pigment]] onto the leather. This was intended to be as close as possible to [[aniline leather]], while applying a light protection in order to meet the legitimate wishes of the furniture trade and the end users. If, during investigations, pigments were found on the surface the tannery would be accused of failing to sell high quality aniline leather. Then, if it was  tested for [[Semi-aniline|semi aniline leather]], it failed to meet the minimum requirements for [[Colour fastness - Light fastness of leather|light fastness]] or [[leather quality|friction resistance]].
  
Durch diese Regelungslücke entstand der Eindruck, als hätte die Gerberei ein mangelhaftes Leder [[Lederherstellung|hergestellt]]. Dabei ist ein Leder zwischen Anilinleder und Semianilinleder ein hervorragendes Leder exzellenter Qualität. Es ist so wenig wie möglich beschichtet, um die Natürlichkeit zu bewahren, und trotzdem hat es einen Mindestschutz, der besser ist als bei komplett offenporigen Anilinledern. Es bleicht nicht so leicht aus und ist nicht so fleckenempflindlich.  
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This regulatory gap gave the impression that the [[tannery]] had produced a deficient leather. But a leather that falls between [[aniline leather]] and [[Semi-aniline|semi aniline leather]] is actually of excellent [[leather quality|quality]]. It is [[finish|coated]] as little as possible to preserve the naturalness. Although this offers minimum protection, it ensures that this type of leather will not fade so easily and be less stain sensitive than  completely [[Porous leather|porous]] aniline leather.  
  
Vielen Kunden ist nicht vermittelbar, dass ein reines Anilinleder, welches in der höchsten Preisklasse angesiedelt ist, mit der Zeit Lichtschäden aufweist, eine [[Patina]] bekommt und bei manchen Flecken kaum zu [[Lederreiniger|reinigen]] ist. Somit sind leicht pigmentierte Leder zwischen Anilinleder und Semianilinleder eine Bereicherung für das Angebot und eine positive Entwicklung für die [[Gerberei|Lederhersteller]], [[Lederhändler]], [[Möbelleder|Möbelhersteller]] und die Endverbraucher.
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It's of little advantage to the consumer that pure aniline leather, which falls within the highest price bracket, [[Colour fastness - Light fastness of leather|fades]] over time and that normal stains are difficult to remove. Thus, slightly pigmented leather between aniline and semi aniline is a much better option for leather manufacturers, leather traders, furniture manufacturers and the end customers.
  
 +
==Aniline leather, refined – Refined aniline leather==
 +
At the beginning of 2016, the term "aniline leather, refined" appeared for the first time in the new formulation of RAL 430/4. The definition stated that on a refined aniline leather the [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|hair pore]] must be almost completely visible. An applied pigment coating must not exceed 0.015 mm. In the case of aniline leather, a pigment-free coating should not be above 0.01 mm.
  
==Geschöntes Anilinleder==
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In RAL 061 A1 (March 2016) the rules were tightened once more. Accordingly, the [[finish|pigmentation]] is not allowed to exceed 0.01 mm. The natural hair pores must remain clearly visible and the hair pore channels must not be completely filled.
Leder mit einer [[Zurichtung|leichten Pigmentierung]] oder Oberflächenfärbung werden auch als „geschönte Leder“ bezeichnet. Sichtbare [[Hautschäden|Schönheitsfehler]] des Anilinleders werden schöner gemacht. Im Ergebnis hat man dann ein geschöntes Leder. [[Semianilinleder]] werden meist als geschönte [[Anilinleder]] oder als mit Pigmenten geschöntes Anilinleder bezeichnet. Im Gegenzug ist ein nicht geschöntes [[Narbenleder]] ein Anilinleder.
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 +
Presumably the "aniline leather is refined" will overtake the pure aniline leather in the [[leather furniture|furniture sector]]. The tendency for a [[Antique Leather - Vintage Leather#Leather patina|patina]] to form on high-priced pure [[aniline leather]] only makes sense for buyers who want this effect.
  
==Anilinleder veredelt (gebrauchsoptimiert) – veredeltes Anilinleder==
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Although this new leather type makes it harder for consumers and experts to distinguish between the [[types of leather]], the manufacturers should adhere to the new definitions in their leather descriptions. This solution is the right way to offer the end users the best [[smooth leather]] in the high price segment. It will certainly take a few years until the new term "aniline leather refined" has become established.
Anfang 2016 tauchte der Begriff „Anilinleder veredelt“ erstmals in der Neuformulierung der RAL 430/4 auf. Nach der dortigen Definition muss ein veredeltes Anilinleder ein noch deutlich und nahezu vollständig sichtbares [[Haarporen|Porenbild]] aufweisen. Eine aufgetragene Pigmentzurichtung darf 0,015 mm nicht übersteigen. Bei Anilinledern darf eine pigmentfreie Beschichtung nicht über 0,01 mm sein, und beim Semianilinleder muss der [[Haarporen|natürliche Narben]] noch deutlich sichtbar sein (DIN EN 15987), oder die [[Zurichtung]] darf die [[Haarporen|natürliche Porenstruktur]] nicht verdecken (DIN 68871).  
+
  
In der RAL 061 A1 (März 2016) wurden die Regeln noch mal verschärft. Demnach darf die Pigmentierung 0,01 mm nicht übersteigen. Das [[Haarporen|Narbenbild]] muss deutlich sichtbar bleiben, wobei die [[Haarporen|Haarkanäle]] nicht komplett gefüllt sein dürfen.  
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The following examples of [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|pore]] visibility are only indicative. Depending on the [[leather batch]] and area of the skin, large fluctuations of the pore visibility can already be present within one skin.
 
+
Vermutlich wird das "Anilinleder veredelt" das reine [[Anilinleder]] im [[Möbelleder|Möbelbereich]] überholen. Die Tendenz zur [[Patina|Patinabildung]] der hochpreisigen [[Anilinleder|Reinanilinleder]] ist nur den kundigen Endkunden vermittelbar.
+
 
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Zwar wird die Unterscheidbarkeit der [[Lederarten]] für Laien und Experten durch diese neue Lederart nicht einfacher, aber sollten sich die Hersteller bei den Deklarierungen der Lederarten an die neuen Definitionen halten, ist diese Lösung der richtige Weg, dem Endverbraucher beste [[Glattleder|Glattlederarten]] im hochpreisigen Segment zur Verfügung zu stellen. Es wird sicherlich einige Jahre brauchen, bis sich der neue Begriff „Anilinleder veredelt“ etabliert hat.
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Die folgenden Beispielbilder der [[Haarporen|Porenerkennbarkeit]] sind nur Anhaltspunkte. Je nach [[Partie]] und [[Abschnitte der Tierhaut|Bereich der Haut]] können schon innerhalb einer Haut starke Schwankungen des Porenbilds vorliegen.  
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<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-01-Anilin.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Refined aniline leather-01-Anilin.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-02-Anilin.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Refined aniline leather-02-Anilin.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''[[Anilinleder|Reinanilinleder]] ist komplett [[Offenporige Leder|offenporig]] ohne [[Zurichtung|Pigmentzurichtung]].''<br></p>
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''Pure [[aniline leather]]: The [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|pores]] are completely recognisable and no [[Finish|finish]] is applied on the leather surface.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-02.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Refined aniline leather 03.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
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''Anilinleder veredelt hat nur eine ganz dünne [[Zurichtung|Pigmentzurichtung]] auf der Oberfläche, die kaum auffällt.''<br></p>
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''Refined aniline leather has only a very thin [[finish|pigment coating]] on the surface, which is hardly noticeable.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-03-Semianilin.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Semi-aniline_leather-03.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-04-Semianilin.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Semi-aniline_leather-04.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Bei [[Semianilinleder|Semianilinledern]] ist das Porenbild noch gut erkennbar, aber nicht mehr nahezu vollständig.''<br></p>
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''[[Semi-aniline|Semi-aniline leather]]: [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Pores]] are still clearly visible, but a thin [[Leather colour|layer of paint]] is on the leather surface which is more then on aniline leather, refined.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-06-Pigment.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Finished-Pigmented-Leather-01.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Anilinleder-veredelt-04-Pigment.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:Pigmented-Finished-Leather-02.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
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<p align=center>
''Ist das [[Haarporen|Porenbild]] kaum noch erkennbar, handelt es sich um [[Zurichtung|pigmentiertes Glattleder]].''<br></p>
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''[[Finish|Pigmented]] [[Smooth leather|smooth leather]]: [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Pores]]
 +
are no longer recognisable because a thick [[Leather colour|layer of paint]] is filling and covering the pores.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
<werbebanner />
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==[[Leather videos|Video]] about different [[types of leather]]==
 
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==Video über [[Lederarten]]==
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<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
<flashow>http://www.youtube.com/v/netXyfxUsAk&fs=1&color1=0x660000&color2=0x550000&border=1|width=500|height=281,25</flashow>  
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<flashow>//www.youtube.com/v/DFtRH_aLGL0&fs=1&color1=0x660000&color2=0x550000&border=1|width=500|height=281,25</flashow>  
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
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<p align=center>
''Film über Lederarten.''
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''[[Leather videos|Video]] about different kinds of [[Smooth leather|smooth leather]]''.
 
</p>
 
</p>
  
  
== Weitere Informationen ==
+
== Additional information ==
* [[Anilinleder|Offenporige Anilinleder]]
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* [[Aniline leather]]
* [[Semianilinleder]]
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* [[Porous leather]]
* [[Möbelleder|Was sollte man beim Kauf von Ledermöbeln beachten?]]
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* [[Furniture leather#What should be considered when buying new leather furniture?|What should be considered when buying new leather furniture?]]
* [[Zurichtung|Pigmentierte Leder]]
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* [[Finish|Finish - Pigmented leather]]
* [[Glattleder]]
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* [[Smooth leather]]
* [[Haarporen]]
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* [[Leather hair pores - Hair follicles|Leather hair pores]]
  
  

Latest revision as of 14:32, 27 August 2022

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


Leather chair aniline-03.jpg


The gap between aniline leather and semi aniline leather

The lack of a defining standard between pure aniline leather and semi aniline leather has led to a certain amount of confusion. Pure aniline leather must not have a pigmented surface of any kind, not even a minimal one, according to the definition of this type of leather. Therefore, aniline leather is susceptible to stains. As soon as any pigmentation is applied, it is no longer classed as aniline leather. If the leather is only minimally pigmented so that it remains as natural as possible, the leather does not meet the minimum requirements for the leather type semi-aniline leather either.


Leather-Colour-Aniline-01.jpg

Aniline leather is not allowed to have a pigment coating.

 

This conflict occurs mostly in upholstery leathers. Understandably, the leather furniture manufacturers want the best leather quality (aniline leather). But, at the same time, they want the aniline leather not to fade, not to have natural markings on leather and as few colour deviations as possible and not be susceptible to stains.


Wassertropfen-002.jpg Wassertropfen-003.jpg Wassertropfen-004.jpg Waterproofing leather-01.jpg

In aniline leather liquid penetrates immediately. A light finish improves protection.

 

To solve this dilemma, some tanneries have applied thin layers of pigment onto the leather. This was intended to be as close as possible to aniline leather, while applying a light protection in order to meet the legitimate wishes of the furniture trade and the end users. If, during investigations, pigments were found on the surface the tannery would be accused of failing to sell high quality aniline leather. Then, if it was tested for semi aniline leather, it failed to meet the minimum requirements for light fastness or friction resistance.

This regulatory gap gave the impression that the tannery had produced a deficient leather. But a leather that falls between aniline leather and semi aniline leather is actually of excellent quality. It is coated as little as possible to preserve the naturalness. Although this offers minimum protection, it ensures that this type of leather will not fade so easily and be less stain sensitive than completely porous aniline leather.

It's of little advantage to the consumer that pure aniline leather, which falls within the highest price bracket, fades over time and that normal stains are difficult to remove. Thus, slightly pigmented leather between aniline and semi aniline is a much better option for leather manufacturers, leather traders, furniture manufacturers and the end customers.

Aniline leather, refined – Refined aniline leather

At the beginning of 2016, the term "aniline leather, refined" appeared for the first time in the new formulation of RAL 430/4. The definition stated that on a refined aniline leather the hair pore must be almost completely visible. An applied pigment coating must not exceed 0.015 mm. In the case of aniline leather, a pigment-free coating should not be above 0.01 mm.

In RAL 061 A1 (March 2016) the rules were tightened once more. Accordingly, the pigmentation is not allowed to exceed 0.01 mm. The natural hair pores must remain clearly visible and the hair pore channels must not be completely filled.

Presumably the "aniline leather is refined" will overtake the pure aniline leather in the furniture sector. The tendency for a patina to form on high-priced pure aniline leather only makes sense for buyers who want this effect.

Although this new leather type makes it harder for consumers and experts to distinguish between the types of leather, the manufacturers should adhere to the new definitions in their leather descriptions. This solution is the right way to offer the end users the best smooth leather in the high price segment. It will certainly take a few years until the new term "aniline leather refined" has become established.

The following examples of pore visibility are only indicative. Depending on the leather batch and area of the skin, large fluctuations of the pore visibility can already be present within one skin.


Refined aniline leather-01-Anilin.jpg

Refined aniline leather-02-Anilin.jpg

Pure aniline leather: The pores are completely recognisable and no finish is applied on the leather surface.

 

Refined aniline leather 03.jpg

Anilinleder-veredelt-01.jpg

Refined aniline leather has only a very thin pigment coating on the surface, which is hardly noticeable.

 

Semi-aniline leather-03.jpg

Semi-aniline leather-04.jpg

Semi-aniline leather: Pores are still clearly visible, but a thin layer of paint is on the leather surface which is more then on aniline leather, refined.

 

Finished-Pigmented-Leather-01.jpg

Pigmented-Finished-Leather-02.jpg

Pigmented smooth leather: Pores are no longer recognisable because a thick layer of paint is filling and covering the pores.

 

Video about different types of leather

Video about different kinds of smooth leather.


Additional information


Colourlock-GB-03.jpg

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