Aniline leather, refined

The gap between aniline leather and semi aniline leather

Pure aniline leather must not have a pigmented surface of any kind, not even a minimal one, according to the definition of this type of leather. Therefore, aniline leather is susceptible to stains. As soon as any pigmentation is applied, the leather is no longer an aniline leather. If the leather is only minimally pigmented so that it remains as natural as possible, the leather does not meet the minimum requirements for the leather type semi-aniline leather. Between aniline leather and semi aniline leather, there has so far been no defining standard.

Aniline leather is not allowed to have a pigment coating.

This conflict occurs mostly in upholstery leathers. On one hand, the leather furniture manufacturers want the best leather quality (aniline leather), but on the other hand, the aniline leather should not fade, should not have natural markings on leather and as few colour deviations as possible and should not be susceptible to stains.

In aniline leather liquid penetrates immediately. A light finish improves protection.

To solve this dilemma, some tanneries have applied thin layers of pigment onto the leather. This was intended to be as close as possible to aniline leather, while applying a light protection in order to meet the legitimate wishes of the furniture trade and the end users. If, during investigations, pigments were found on the surface the tannery would be accused of failing to sell high quality aniline leather. If it was then tested for semi aniline leather, it failed to meet the minimum requirements for light fastness or friction resistance.

This regulatory gap gave the impression that the tannery had produced a deficient leather. But a leather that falls between aniline leather and semi aniline leather is of excellent quality. It is coated as little as possible to preserve the naturalness. It has a minimum protection which is better than with completely porous aniline leather. It does not fade so easily and is not so stain-sensitive.

For the consumer, it’s not understandable that pure aniline leather, which is located in the highest price class, fades in the course of time and that normal stains are difficult to be cleaned. Thus, slightly pigmented leather between aniline leather and semi-aniline leather is an enrichment and a positive development for the leather manufacturers, leather traders, furniture manufacturers and the final consumers.

Aniline leather, refined – Refined aniline leather

At the beginning of 2016, the term "aniline leather, refined" appeared for the first time in the new formulation of RAL 430/4. According to the definition there, a refined aniline leather must have almost completely visible hair pore. An applied pigment coating is not allowed to exceed 0.015 mm. In the case of aniline leather, a pigment-free coating should not be above 0.01 mm.

In RAL 061 A1 (March 2016) the rules were tightened once more. Accordingly, the pigmentation is not allowed to exceed 0.01 mm. The natural hair pores must remain clearly visible and the hair pore channels are not allowed to be completely filled.

Presumably the "aniline leather is refined" will overtake the pure aniline leather in the furniture sector. The tendency to the patina formation of the high-price pure aniline leather only makes sense for buyers who want exactly this property.

Although the distinctiveness of the types of leather does not get easier for consumers and experts by this new kind of leather, the manufacturers should adhere to the new definitions in the declarations of the leather. This solution is the right way to offer the end users the best smooth leather in the high price segment. It will certainly take a few years until the new term "aniline leather refined" has become established.

The following examples of pore recognisability are only indicative. Depending on the leather batch and area of the skin, large fluctuations of the pore visibility can already be present within one skin.

Pure aniline leather: The pores are completely recognisable and no finish is applied on the leather surface.

Refined aniline leather has only a very thin pigment coating on the surface, which is hardly noticeable.

Semi-aniline leather: Pores are still clearly visible, but a thin layer of paint is on the leather surface which is more then on aniline leather, refined.