Difference between revisions of "Bio leather"

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==Bioleder==
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==Bio leather - Organic leather==
"Bio" ist kein klar definierter Begriff. Es ist die Annäherung an ein Idealbild eines Produkts, welches möglichst umweltschonend über alle Produktionsstufen hergestellt wird, dem Konsumenten nicht schadet und in der Entsorgung der Umwelt keine Probleme bereitet. Eine genaue Definition, ab wann ein Produkt als "Bio" bezeichnet werden kann, gibt es nicht.  
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"Bio" is not a clearly defined term. It is the approach to an ideal image of a product, which is produced as environmentally friendly as possible over all production stages, does not harm the consumer and does not cause problems in the disposal of the environment. An exact definition of when a product can be called "bio", "biological" or "organic" is not available.
  
  
==Bio-Leder - Gerbarten==
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==Bio-Leather - [[Tanning leather|Tanning methods]]==
Manchmal werden [[Chromgerbung#FOC = Free of Chrome|chrom- und metallfrei]] gegerbte [[Leder]] auch als '''Bioleder''' bezeichnet, was aber irreführend ist, da [[Chromgerbung|chromgegerbte]] Leder bei sachgemäßer Herstellungsweise nicht als an sich gesundheitsbeeinträchtigend bezeichnet werden können. Meist wird der Begriff Bioleder im Zusammenhang mit pflanzlich gegerbten Ledern verwendet. Dies ist auch naheliegend, da sich "[[Pflanzengerbung]]" schon vom Wort her ökologischer anhört. Der Konflikt im Vergleich der dominanten Chromgerbung mit der Pflanzengerbung muss aber den gesamten Produktionsverlauf abgleichen.  
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Sometimes [[Chrome tanned#Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome|chrome- and metal-free]] tanned leathers are referred to as bio leather. But this is misleading because [[Chrome tanned|chrome-tanned]] leathers can not be considered to be health-threatening as a matter of fact.  
  
In wissenschaftlichen Untersuchungen im Vergleich dieser Gerbarten kam man zu dem Schluss, dass beide Gerbarten mehr oder weniger identisch ressourcenschonend bzw. ressourcenbelastend sind.  
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The term bio leather is usually used in connection with [[vegetable-tanned leather]]. This is because "vegetable" sounds ecologically. However, the conflict in the comparison of the dominant chrome tanning with the plant tanning must consider the entire production process.
  
Der Nachteil des Chemieanteils der Chromgerbung muss den Nachteilen der Pflanzengerbung gegenübergestellt werden. Die Nachteile der Pflanzengerbung sind:
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A scientific investigations comparing these [[Tanning leather|tanning methodes]] came to the conclusion that both tanning methodes are more or less identical resource-conserving and / or resource-sparing. The disadvantage of the chemical content of [[Chrome tanned|chrome tannin]] must be compared with the disadvantages of [[vegetable-tanned vegetable tanning]]. The disadvantages of vegetable tanning are:
 +
* The vegetable [[tannins|tanning agents]] have to be extracted in distant countries (cutting trees, tanin production).
 +
* The [[tannins]] have to be brought to the [[tannery|tanneries]] by long transport routes by sea with high fuel consumption.
 +
* The consumption weight of plant tannins per tanned skin is significantly higher than with chrome tanning agents.
 +
* The sewage water contamination due to the considerably higher number of tanning baths, which the leather has to go through, is much higher when vegetable tanning than with the chrome tanning.
  
* Die Pflanzengerbstoffe müssen erst in fernen Ländern gewonnen werden (Bäume fällen und zermahlen).
 
  
* Sie müssen über lange Transportwege per See mit hohem Treibstoffverbrauch zu den Gerbereien gebracht werden.
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==Criteria for bio leather==
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[[Leather production]] is the conversion of a waste product by the [[tannery]] into a durable, natural material. During this conversion, various [[Leather production|production]] stages are passed through. Depending on environmental requirements and their controls, the tanneries are subject to more or less strict rules. In the developed countries it can be assumed that the leather production requirements are much more stringent. But most of [[Leather industry|world production]] does not take place in developed countries with strict regulations. It can be assumed that leather production in developed countries will be more beneficial to the environment. Accordingly, leather prices are higher. Anyhow, these requirements do not yet suffice for labeling as "bio-leather".
  
* Der Kiloeinsatz an Pflanzengerbstoffen pro gegerbte Haut ist deutlich höher als bei Chromgerbstoffen.
 
  
* Der Schmutzwasseranfall durch die deutlich höhere Anzahl an Gerbbrühen, die das Leder durchlaufen muss, ist bei einer Pflanzengerbung wesentlich höher als bei der Chromgerbung.
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The following aspects play a role in the naming of a leather as "bio leather":  <br />
  
 +
'''Complete traceability of the animal skin:'''  <br />
 +
* Where was the animal kept throughout the life cycle? In the free nature? Barn or cage? Other living conditions?  <br />
 +
* What drugs have been administered? Permanent vaccinations and preventive antibiotic care etc.?  <br />
 +
* How was the animal fed? Fresh food? Recycled wastes from other productions? Pesticide-containing? Genetic manipulation? Sustainable?  <br />
 +
* How was the animal slaughtered?  <br />
  
<p align=center>
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'''[[Leather production]]''':  <br />
[[bild:Bio-Leder-01.jpg|500px]]
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* Types and quantities of chemicals with complete traceability of the production chains ([[tanines, [[leather colour|dyes, binders, pigments]], [[Oils & fats in the leather industry|oils]] and much more).
</p>
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* For vegetable tanning: Sustainable? Renewable resources? Transport routes? Often bio leather is advertised with "vegetable tanned". This does not mean that vegetable tanning itself was biologically carried out (it can be worked with great environmental damage) and it does not say that the leather could not be contaminated with chromium or with other pollutant chemicals.
<p align=center>
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* Minimum wages, social standards etc. in the [[tannery]].
''Ein pflanzlich gegerbtes Leder ist aufgrund der [[Gerbung|Gerbart]] weder automatisch weich, noch schadstoffrei.''<br></p>
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* Handling of production waste including re-use.
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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* Treatment of polluted sewage.
  
==Kriterien für Bio-Leder==
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'''Leather processing''':  <br />
Die [[Lederherstellung]] ist die Umwandlung eines Abfallprodukts aus der [[Gerberei]] in ein haltbares, natürliches Gut. In diesem Zusammenhang werden diverse [[Lederherstellung|Produktionsstufen]] durchlaufen. Je nach Umweltauflagen und deren Kontrollen unterliegen die Gerbereien mehr oder weniger strengen Regeln. In den entwickelten Ländern kann davon ausgegangen werden, dass die Anforderungen an die Lederherstellung deutlich strenger sind. Der Großteil der [[Lederindustrie|Weltproduktion]] findet aber nicht in entwickelten Ländern mit strengen Vorschriften statt. Man kann aber davon ausgehen, dass die Lederproduktion in entwickelten Ländern die Umwelt stärker schonen. Entsprechend sind die Lederpreise höher. Aber für die Kennzeichnung als "Bio-Leder" reichen diese Anforderungen noch nicht.
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* Resource conservation, sustainability
 
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* Work safety
 
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* Social standards and remuneration
Folgende Gesichtspunkte spielen bei der Bewerbung eines "Bio-Leders" eine Rolle:  <br />
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'''Komplette Rückverfolgbarkeit der Tierhaut''':  <br />
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- Wo wurde das Tier über den gesamten Lebenszyklus gehalten. Freiland? Stall- oder Käfighaltung? Weitere Lebensumstände? Z. B. wird Bioleder aus "100% kontrollierter, biologischer Tierhaltung" angeboten. <br />
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- Welche Medikamente wurden verabreicht? Ständige Impfungen und präventive Antibiotikaversorgung etc.?<br />
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- Wie wurde das Tier ernährt? Frischfutter? Aufbereitete Abfälle aus anderen Produktionen? Pestizidhaltig? Genmanipulation? Nachhaltig? <br />
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- Wie wurde das Tier geschlachtet? <br />
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'''Lederherstellung''':  <br />
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- Arten und Mengen der Chemikalien mit kompletter Rückverfolgbarkeit der Produktionsketten ([[Gerbstoffe]], [[Lederfarbe|Farbstoffe, Bindemittel, Pigmente]], [[Fetten|Rückfettungsmittel]], um nur einige der eingesetzten Chemikalien zu erwähnen).  <br />
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- Bei [[Pflanzlich gegerbtes Leder|Pflanzengerbstoffen]]: Nachhaltig? Nachwachsende Rohstoffe? Transportwege? etc. Oft wird Bio-Leder mit "planzlich gegerbt" beworben. Das sagt noch nicht aus, dass die Pflanzengerbung selber biologisch erfolgte (hier kann mit großem Umweltschaden gearbeitet werden) und es sagt auch nicht aus, dass das Leder [[Chromgerbung#FOC = Free of Chrome|chromfrei]] oder mit anderen Schadstoffen belastet sein könnte. Wobei die [[Chromgerbung]] nicht giftig oder richtig durchgeführt besonders Umweltbelastend ist. <br />
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- Mindestlöhne, Sozialstandards etc. in der [[Gerberei]].  <br />
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- Handhabung der Produktionsabfälle inkl. Weiterverwertung.
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- Aufbereitung der belasteten Abwässer, die in jeder [[Gerberei]] anfallen.
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'''Lederverarbeitung''':  <br />
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- Ressourcenschonung, Nachhaltigkeit  <br />
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- Arbeitssicherheit <br />
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- Sozialstandards und Entlohnung  <br />
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The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether a "bio-leather" actually deserves this title at all points, the conscientious customer must determine himself. Since the term is not protected and the seals and certificates established by the industry do not always take into account all points, distrust is appropriate. The perfect organic leather is also not available in mass production. But there are plants that pay more attention to the environment than others.
 
The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether a "bio-leather" actually deserves this title at all points, the conscientious customer must determine himself. Since the term is not protected and the seals and certificates established by the industry do not always take into account all points, distrust is appropriate. The perfect organic leather is also not available in mass production. But there are plants that pay more attention to the environment than others.
 
Die Summe der zu betrachtenden Faktoren ist sehr lang und ob ein "Bio-Leder" bei allen Punkten tatsächlich diesen Titel verdient, muss der gewissenhafte Kunde selbst ermitteln. Da der Begriff nicht geschützt ist und die von der Industrie festgelegten Siegel und Zertifikate nicht immer alle Punkte berücksichtigen, ist Misstrauen angebracht. Das perfekte Bio-Leder gibt es auch nicht in der Massenfertigung. Aber es gibt Betriebe, die mehr auf die Umwelt achten als andere.
 
  
  

Revision as of 17:32, 12 November 2016

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


Bio leather - Organic leather

"Bio" is not a clearly defined term. It is the approach to an ideal image of a product, which is produced as environmentally friendly as possible over all production stages, does not harm the consumer and does not cause problems in the disposal of the environment. An exact definition of when a product can be called "bio", "biological" or "organic" is not available.


Bio-Leather - Tanning methods

Sometimes chrome- and metal-free tanned leathers are referred to as bio leather. But this is misleading because chrome-tanned leathers can not be considered to be health-threatening as a matter of fact.

The term bio leather is usually used in connection with vegetable-tanned leather. This is because "vegetable" sounds ecologically. However, the conflict in the comparison of the dominant chrome tanning with the plant tanning must consider the entire production process.

A scientific investigations comparing these tanning methodes came to the conclusion that both tanning methodes are more or less identical resource-conserving and / or resource-sparing. The disadvantage of the chemical content of chrome tannin must be compared with the disadvantages of vegetable-tanned vegetable tanning. The disadvantages of vegetable tanning are:

  • The vegetable tanning agents have to be extracted in distant countries (cutting trees, tanin production).
  • The tannins have to be brought to the tanneries by long transport routes by sea with high fuel consumption.
  • The consumption weight of plant tannins per tanned skin is significantly higher than with chrome tanning agents.
  • The sewage water contamination due to the considerably higher number of tanning baths, which the leather has to go through, is much higher when vegetable tanning than with the chrome tanning.


Criteria for bio leather

Leather production is the conversion of a waste product by the tannery into a durable, natural material. During this conversion, various production stages are passed through. Depending on environmental requirements and their controls, the tanneries are subject to more or less strict rules. In the developed countries it can be assumed that the leather production requirements are much more stringent. But most of world production does not take place in developed countries with strict regulations. It can be assumed that leather production in developed countries will be more beneficial to the environment. Accordingly, leather prices are higher. Anyhow, these requirements do not yet suffice for labeling as "bio-leather".


The following aspects play a role in the naming of a leather as "bio leather":

Complete traceability of the animal skin:

  • Where was the animal kept throughout the life cycle? In the free nature? Barn or cage? Other living conditions?
  • What drugs have been administered? Permanent vaccinations and preventive antibiotic care etc.?
  • How was the animal fed? Fresh food? Recycled wastes from other productions? Pesticide-containing? Genetic manipulation? Sustainable?
  • How was the animal slaughtered?

Leather production:

  • Types and quantities of chemicals with complete traceability of the production chains ([[tanines, dyes, binders, pigments, oils and much more).
  • For vegetable tanning: Sustainable? Renewable resources? Transport routes? Often bio leather is advertised with "vegetable tanned". This does not mean that vegetable tanning itself was biologically carried out (it can be worked with great environmental damage) and it does not say that the leather could not be contaminated with chromium or with other pollutant chemicals.
  • Minimum wages, social standards etc. in the tannery.
  • Handling of production waste including re-use.
  • Treatment of polluted sewage.

Leather processing:

  • Resource conservation, sustainability
  • Work safety
  • Social standards and remuneration


The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether a "bio-leather" actually deserves this title at all points, the conscientious customer must determine himself. Since the term is not protected and the seals and certificates established by the industry do not always take into account all points, distrust is appropriate. The perfect organic leather is also not available in mass production. But there are plants that pay more attention to the environment than others.



Additional information


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