Bio leather

Bio leather - Organic leather

"Bio" is not a clearly defined term. It is the approach to an ideal image of a product, which is produced as environmentally friendly as possible over all production stages, does not harm the consumer and does not cause problems in the disposal of the environment. An exact definition of when a product can be called "bio", "biological" or "organic" is not available.

Bio-Leather - Tanning methods

Sometimes chrome- and metal-free tanned leathers are referred to as bio leather. But this is misleading because chrome-tanned leathers cannot be considered to be health-threatening.

The term bio leather is usually used in connection with vegetable-tanned leather. This is because "vegetable" sounds ecological and some may interpret to a product manufactured ecologically. However, when comparing chrome tanning with plant based vegetable tanning, the entire production process should be considered and not just the source of tanning agents.

A scientific investigation comparing these tanning methods came to the conclusion that both tanning methods are more or less identical resource-conserving and / or resource-sparing. The disadvantage of the chemical content of chrome tannin must be compared with the disadvantages of vegetable tanning. The disadvantages of vegetable tanning are:

• Vegetable tanning agents must be extracted in distant countries (cutting trees, tannin production).
• The tannins must be brought to the tanneries by long transport routes by sea with high fuel consumption.
• The consumption weight of plant tannins per tanned skin is significantly higher than with chrome tanning agents.
• The sewage water contamination due to the considerably higher number of tanning baths, which the leather has to go through, is much higher in vegetable tanning than with chrome tanning.

Criteria for bio leather

Leather production is the conversion of a waste product by the tannery into a durable, natural material. During this conversion, various production stages are carried out. Depending on environmental requirements and their controls, tanneries across the world are subject to varying rules. In developed countries, it can be assumed that the leather production requirements are much more stringent. But most of world production does not take place in developed countries with strict regulations. It can be assumed that leather production in developed countries will be more beneficial to the environment. Accordingly, leather prices are higher. In any case, fulfilling these requirements also do not suffice for labelling as "bio-leather".

The following aspects play a role in the naming of a leather as "bio leather":

Complete traceability of the animal skin:

• Where was the animal kept throughout the life cycle? In the free nature? Barn or cage? Other living conditions?
  
• What drugs have been administered? Permanent vaccinations and preventive antibiotic care etc.?
  
• How was the animal fed? Fresh food? Recycled wastes from other productions? Pesticide-containing? Genetic manipulation? Sustainable?
  
• How was the animal slaughtered?
  

Leather production:

• Types and quantities of chemicals with complete traceability of the production chains (tannins, dyes, binders, pigments, oils and much more).
• For vegetable tanning: Sustainable? Renewable resources? Transport routes? Often bio leather is advertised with "vegetable tanned". This does not mean that vegetable tanning itself was biologically carried out (it can be worked with great environmental damage) and it does not say that the leather could not be contaminated with chromium or with other pollutant chemicals.
• Minimum wages, social standards etc. in the tannery.
• Handling of production waste including re-use.
• Treatment of polluted sewage.

Leather processing:

• Resource conservation, sustainability
• Work safety
• Social standards and remuneration

The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether any leather actually deserves the title of "bio-leather" or not - should only be decided by the customer. The term "bio leather" is not protected and the certificates established by the industry do not always consider all points. The perfect organic leather will also never be able to mass produced. But there are plants that pay more attention to the environment than others.

Additional information

• Vegan leather
• Leather quality
• Vegetable-tanned leather
• Chrome tanned
• Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome
• PeTA - People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals
• Ecological leather care - Eco leather care

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