Difference between revisions of "Crust leather"

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==Crust leather==
 
==Crust leather==
'''Crustleder''' ist [[Leder]], das nach der [[Gerbung]] [[trocknen|getrocknet]], aber noch nicht [[Lederfarbe|gefärbt]] ist. Bei chromgegerbten Ledern spricht man dann von "Chrom-Crust" oder bei [[pflanzlich gegerbtes Leder|pflanzlich gegerbten]] Ledern von "Pflanzen-Crust". Ein weiterer Begriff für "Crustleder" ist "Borke" oder "Borkeleder".  
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Crust leather is the term applied to  [[leather]], which is [[Preservation by drying, salting or freezing|dried]] after [[tanning]] but has not yet been [[leather colour|dyed]]. In the case of chrome-tanned leather, this is known as "chrome crust" and, for vegetable-tanned leather, as "vegetable crust". In some definitions of crust, the leather is described as having been [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#leather dye|dyed through]] but not [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#Finish - Surface binder-based pigmentation|finished]].
  
Crustleder wird nur selten weiterverarbeitet. Meist werden die Leder vor der Verarbeitung noch [[Lederfarbe|gefärbt]] und [[Zurichtung|zugerichtet]].  
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Crust leather is rarely processed as it is. Usually, the leather is [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#leather dye|dyed]] and [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#Finish - Surface binder-based pigmentation|finished]] before processing.
 
   
 
   
  
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''"Pflanzencrust" - "Chromcrust"''<br></p>
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''[[Vegetable-tanned leather|Vegetable crust]] - [[Chrome tanned|Chrome crust]]''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Blankleder_Flecken01_1205.jpg|236px]]
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[[bild:Leather-colombia-furniture-branding-01.jpg|500px]]
[[bild:Wuerfelbecher-001.jpg|250px]]
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Pflanzliche Crustleder verarbeitet.''<br></p>
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[[bild:Wuerfelbecher-001.jpg|500px]]
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</p>
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<p align=center>
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''[[Vegetable-tanned leather|Vegetable tanned]] crust leather processed.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
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</p>
 
</p>
 
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<p align=center>
''Unusual. Chrom-Crust weiterverarbeitet. Die Färbung ist so nicht ansprechend. Daher eher eine "Billig-Lösung".''<br></p>
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''Unusual: Chrome crust processed. The colouration with chromium only is unattractive and therefore a cheap solution.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
 
==Crusting==
 
==Crusting==
Crusting is part of the [[Leather production|tannery working steps for leather produciton]]. The parts of working steps in the [[Leather production|leather production process]] are called, preparatory stages, [[tanning]], crusting and [[finish|surface coating]].  
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Crusting is part of the [[Leather production|steps for leather production]]. The main stages in the [[Leather production|leather production process]] are called, preparatory stages, [[tanning]], crusting and [[finish|surface coating]].  
  
Crusting is when the hide is [[Leather production#Shaving|thinned]], [[tanning leather#retanned|retanned]] and [[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|regreased]]. Often a [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#Dyed leather|dye process]] is included in the crusting. Also part of the crusting is the [[Drying leather|drying]] and [[softening]].  
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Crusting is when the hide is [[Leather production#Shaving|thinned]], [[tanning leather#retanned|retanned]] and [[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|regreased]]. Often a [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#Dyed leather|dye process]] is included in the crusting. Also, part of the crusting process involves [[Drying leather|drying]] and [[softening]].  
  
Crusting may include the following working steps depending on the [[types of leather|type of leather]]:
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<u>Crusting may include the following working steps depending on the [[types of leather|type of leather]]:</u>
 
* '''[[Split leather|Splitting]]''': The leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
 
* '''[[Split leather|Splitting]]''': The leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
 
* '''[[Neutralising|neutralisation]]''': The pH of the leather is adjusted.
 
* '''[[Neutralising|neutralisation]]''': The pH of the leather is adjusted.
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* '''Fixation''': Unbound chemicals are chemically bonded or removed from the fibres.
 
* '''Fixation''': Unbound chemicals are chemically bonded or removed from the fibres.
 
* '''Whitening''': The colour of the leather is lightened.
 
* '''Whitening''': The colour of the leather is lightened.
* '''[[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|Fatliquoring]]''': Fats and oils and waxes soften the leather fibres.
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* '''[[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|Fatliquoring]] and [[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|Stuffing]]''': Fats, oils and waxes are added between the fibres to soften the leather.
* '''[[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|Stuffing]]: Fats, oils and waxes are added between the fibres to soften the leather.
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* '''[[Shaving]]''': The leather is thinned using a machine which cuts leather fibres from the [[flesh side]].
* '''[[Shaving]]''': The leather is thinned using a machine which cuts leather fibres off the [[flesh side]].
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* '''Wetting''' and '''Conditioning''': Leather has to be rehydrated depending on the following working steps.
* '''Wetting''': Leather has to be rehydrated depending on the following working steps.
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* '''[[Drying leather|Sammying]]''': Water is squeezed out the leather.
 
* '''[[Drying leather|Sammying]]''': Water is squeezed out the leather.
 
* '''[[Drying leather|Drying]]''': The leather is dried to different moisture levels.
 
* '''[[Drying leather|Drying]]''': The leather is dried to different moisture levels.
 
* '''Filling''': Dense chemicals are added to make the leather harder and heavier.
 
* '''Filling''': Dense chemicals are added to make the leather harder and heavier.
 
* '''Stripping''': Superficially fixed tannins are removed.
 
* '''Stripping''': Superficially fixed tannins are removed.
 
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* '''[[Leather production#Softening|Softening]]''': Physical softening of the leather by [[Leather production#Softening|tumbling and stacking]].
Setting - area, grain flatness are imparted and excess water removed.
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* '''[[Sanding leather|Buffing]]''': Abrasion of the surfaces of the leather to reduce nap or grain defects.
Conditioning - water is added to the leather to a level of 18-28%.
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Softening - physical softening of the leather by separating the leather fibres.
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Buffing - abrasion of the surfaces of the leather to reduce nap or grain defects.
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Latest revision as of 18:30, 13 December 2022

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


Crust leather

Crust leather is the term applied to leather, which is dried after tanning but has not yet been dyed. In the case of chrome-tanned leather, this is known as "chrome crust" and, for vegetable-tanned leather, as "vegetable crust". In some definitions of crust, the leather is described as having been dyed through but not finished.

Crust leather is rarely processed as it is. Usually, the leather is dyed and finished before processing.


Anilinoffen.jpg Wet-blue.jpg

Wet-Blue-04.jpg

Vegetable crust - Chrome crust

 

Leather-colombia-furniture-branding-01.jpg

Wuerfelbecher-001.jpg

Vegetable tanned crust leather processed.

 

Chrome-crust-belt-02.jpg

Unusual: Chrome crust processed. The colouration with chromium only is unattractive and therefore a cheap solution.

 

Crusting

Crusting is part of the steps for leather production. The main stages in the leather production process are called, preparatory stages, tanning, crusting and surface coating.

Crusting is when the hide is thinned, retanned and regreased. Often a dye process is included in the crusting. Also, part of the crusting process involves drying and softening.


Crusting may include the following working steps depending on the type of leather:

  • Splitting: The leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
  • neutralisation: The pH of the leather is adjusted.
  • Retanning: Additional tanning imparts properties.
  • Dying: The leather is coloured in the drum.
  • Fixation: Unbound chemicals are chemically bonded or removed from the fibres.
  • Whitening: The colour of the leather is lightened.
  • Fatliquoring and Stuffing: Fats, oils and waxes are added between the fibres to soften the leather.
  • Shaving: The leather is thinned using a machine which cuts leather fibres from the flesh side.
  • Wetting and Conditioning: Leather has to be rehydrated depending on the following working steps.
  • Sammying: Water is squeezed out the leather.
  • Drying: The leather is dried to different moisture levels.
  • Filling: Dense chemicals are added to make the leather harder and heavier.
  • Stripping: Superficially fixed tannins are removed.
  • Softening: Physical softening of the leather by tumbling and stacking.
  • Buffing: Abrasion of the surfaces of the leather to reduce nap or grain defects.


Additional information


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