Difference between revisions of "Suede - Nubuck - Buckskin"

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==Buckskin==
 
==Buckskin==
Buckskin was a traditional [[type of leather]] of the indians of North America. The [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain surface]] of [[Deerskin|deer]], [[Reindeer leather|reindeer]] and [[Elkskin leather|elk]] skins was scratched away and the skin was processed to suede. Buckskin was [[brain tanning|brain tanned]] or [[tanning leather|tanned]] with [[Tanning with fats and oils|fish oil]] or aldehyde or combinations of it. Some buckskin leathers get a [[finish]] on one of the sides. [[brain tanning|Brain tanned leather]] is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting. Buckskin is used for [[leather shoes|shoes]], [[leather bag|bangs]] and [[leather clothing]].  
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Buckskin was a traditional [[Types of leather|type of leather]] of the indians of North America. The [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain surface]] of [[Deerskin|deer]], [[Reindeer leather|reindeer]] and [[Elkskin leather|elk]] skins was scratched away and the skin was processed to suede. Buckskin was [[brain tanning|brain tanned]] or [[tanning leather|tanned]] with [[Tanning with fats and oils|fish oil]] or aldehyde or combinations of it. Some buckskin leathers get a [[finish]] on one of the sides. [[brain tanning|Brain tanned leather]] is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting. Buckskin is used for [[leather shoes|shoes]], [[leather bag|bangs]] and [[leather clothing]].  
  
  
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==Embossed nubuck==
 
==Embossed nubuck==
'''Geprägtes [[Nubukleder]]''' ist ein Nubukleder, auf welches mit einer Walze eine [[Farbe|farbige]] [[Prägung]] aufgebracht wurde. Im Bereich des Farbauftrags (der dunklen Bereiche) ist das [[Leder]] dann wie ein [[Zurichtung|pigmentiertes Glattleder]] und dazwischen (helle Bereiche) ein normales Nubukleder. Die Prägung ist immer dunkler als das Nubukleder.  
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[[Embossed leather|Embossed]] nubuck is nubuck leather on which a [[leather colour|coloured]] embossing has been applied with a roller. In the area of the [[finish|colour application]] (the dark areas), the leather is then a pigmented [[smooth leather]] and in between (light areas) a normal nubuck leather. The [[Embossed leather|embossing]] is always darker than the nubuck leather.
  
Im Möbelbereich war in den 80er und 90er Jahren geprägtes Nubukleder weit verbreitet. Inzwischen findet man diese Lederart bei Möbeln aber kaum noch. Gelegentlich sieht man geprägtes Nubuk im  [[Lederbekleidung|Bekleidungs-]] und [[Lederschuhe|Schuhbereich]]. Im [[:Kategorie:Leder Auto|Fahrzeugbereich]] ist diese Lederart unbekannt.  
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[[Embossed leather|Embossed]] nubuck was widely used in the 80s and 90s. In the meantime, this type of leather is rarely found. Occasionly embossed nubuck is used for [[leather clothing|clothin]] and [[leather shoes|shoes]]. For [[car leather|cars]] it has never been used.
  
  
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Es gibt die unterschiedlichsten Muster für diese [[Prägung|Prägungen]]. Am typischsten ist aber die Narbenoptik eines [[Glattleder|Glattleders]].''<br></p>
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''There are many different patterns. Nost typical is the [[Natural leather grain|natural grain optic]] of [[smooth leather]].''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Hier wurde nur die [[Narbung]] der Glattlederhaut ins Nubuk [[Prägung|geprägt]].''<br></p>
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''Here, only the [[Natural leather grain|grain]] of a [[smooth leather]] was [[Embossed leather|embossed]] without coloring into the nubuck.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
 
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A new variant of embossing and nubucking is the [[Embossed leather|deep embossing]]. Therefore a [[finish|pigmented]] smooth leather is deep [[Embossed leather|embossed]]. Then, the protruding edges are abraded. The manufacturer points out, that the leather is not suitable for seat and wear surfaces. The edges wear too easily by use.
Eine neue Variante der [[Prägung]] und Nubukierung ist die "Nubukierte Tiefenprägung" (Stand 06/2012). Da bei erhlält ein [[Zurichtung|pigmentiertes]] [[Glattleder]] eine Tiefenprägung. Es werden "Mulden in das Leder [[Prägung|geprägt]]. Anschließend werden die hochstehenden Kanten abgeschliffen. Der Hersteller verweist aber darauf, dass das Leder unlaminiert für Sitz- und Verschleißflächen nicht geeignet ist. Die Kanten stoßen sich durch Gebrauch zu leicht ab.  
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Optik der nubukierten Tiefenprägung''<br></p>
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''Optics of the nubucked [[Embossed leather|deep embossing]].''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
 
'''Reinigungs- und Pflegehinweise für diese Lederart'''
 
* [http://www.lederzentrum.de/tip/moebel/rauledergepraegt.html Lederzentrum: Die Handhabung von geprägten Nubukledern]
 
 
  
 
<werbebanner />
 
<werbebanner />
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==Suede==
 
==Suede==
Als Veloursleder werden zwei Sorten von Leder bezeichnet, zum einen die nach unten weg [[Spaltleder|gespaltene]], beidseitig velourige Oberfläche einer Lederhaut (auch [[Fleischspalt]] genannt) und die nach oben verarbeitete, unbeschichtete Rückseite einer Lederhaut. Im Gegensatz zum sehr samtigen Nubuk ist das Veloursleder deutlich aufgerauter. Im englischen Sprachraum wird dieses Leder als "[[Suede]]" bezeichnet.
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Suede is the name of two types of leather. One is the [[slpit leather]] (double-sided velor surface]]. The second is the uncoated [[flesh side]] of a [[smooth leather]] (reverse). In contrast to the very velvety nubuck, the suede is significantly rougher.  
  
  
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Nahaufnahme Velourleder''<br></p>
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''Close-up of suede.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
Am häufigsten taucht Veloursleder im Haushalt bei Turnschuhen auf, aber auch bei [[Lederhandschuhe|Arbeitshandschuhen]]. In beiden Fällen spielen die Schutzfunktion und die starke Atmungsaktivität dieser Lederart eine Rolle. Veloursleder ist sehr [[Offenporige Leder|offenporig]], und Schweiß kann daher sehr gut hindurch wandern. Da Hände und Füße besonders schnell schwitzen, spielt dieser Vorteil eine große Rolle. Veloursleder ist aber auf diesen
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The most common use of sueded leather is the use of [[leather shoes|sneakers]] as well as [[Leather gloves|working gloves]]. In both cases, the protective function and the strong [[Breathability of leather|breathability]] of this type of leather is wished. Suede is very [[Porous leather|porous]], and sweat can therefore very well pass through. As hands and feet sweat very quickly, this advantage plays an important role.  
klein vernähten Flächen angebracht, um Füße oder Hände vor Verletzungen zu schützen.
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<p align=center>
  
''[[Lederschuhe|Turnschuhe]] haben häufig Flächen aus Velourleder. Beim Lammfell-Pantoffel wird das Velour der Rückseite außen verarbeitet.''<br></p>
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''[[leather shoes|Sneakers]] often have surfaces made of suede. With [[Sheepskin - Lambskin|lambskin]] slippers, the velor side ([[flesh side]]) is processed on the outside.''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
"Veloursleder" taucht in der Literatur mit der Schreibweise mit und ohne "s" auf. Traditionell verwenden die Ledertechniker und Gerbereien die Schreibweise ohne "s". Daher wird in der Leder- und Gerbereiliteratur "Veloursleder" stets "Velourleder" geschrieben. Korrekt laut Duden ist aber nur die Schreibweise mit dem "s".
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When gluing leather on car parts, the [[flesh side]] leather fibers are often pressed and glued down beforehand so that irregularities are not visible on the upper side later. The back is more even pretreated like this.
 
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Veloursleder wird auch als '''Hunting-Leder''' bezeichnet.
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Beim Verkleben von Ledern bei Autoteilen werden die Velourfasern der [[Fleischseite]] oft vorher runter gebügelt und verklebt, damit Unregelmäßigkeiten nicht auf der Oberseite sichtbar werden. Die Rückseite wird dadurch gleichmäßiger.
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Rechts wurden die Velourfasern runter verklebt und [[bügeln|gebügelt]].''<br></p>
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''On the right the velor fibers were glued down and [[Ironing leather|ironed]].''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  

Revision as of 21:40, 9 February 2017

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


Nubuck & Suede

Nubuck and suede is sanded leather with a more or less velvet-like surface. The advantage is a pleasantly warm and soft surface and a nice structure.

On the grain side, rough sanded smooth leather is called nubuck. The surface of the reverse (flesh side) is called suede. Also the outwardly processed, uncoated back of a smooth leather, lambskin or cowhide is called suede. On nubuck, the velvety sanded leather fibers are very fine. The fibres of suede are significantly coarser.


Nubuck-01.jpg

Nubuk-001.jpg Nubuk-002.jpg

On nubuck, the sanded leather fibers are very fine.

 

Suede-01.jpg

Velour-01.jpg Suede-02.jpg

Suede has significantly coarser leather fibres.

 

Nubuck-suede-01.jpg
 
Nubuck leather is made by sanding rough the grain side.


Buckskin

Buckskin was a traditional type of leather of the indians of North America. The grain surface of deer, reindeer and elk skins was scratched away and the skin was processed to suede. Buckskin was brain tanned or tanned with fish oil or aldehyde or combinations of it. Some buckskin leathers get a finish on one of the sides. Brain tanned leather is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting. Buckskin is used for shoes, bangs and leather clothing.


Video about leather from different type of animals.


Nubuck

Nubuck is smooth leather sanded rough on the grain side. The rougheing with an abrasive gives the leather a velvety surface. The leather is thus very soft and it has a good breathability. Rearly the term "nubucked leather" is used for nubuck.

The disadvantage of this surface is a markedly increased sensitivity to stains and soiling. The UV resistance is also significantly reduced and therefore tend to fade. Nubuck and suede also have a higher risk of dye transfer. This can be due to sanding dust or excess dyes.


Nubuk-01.jpg Nubuk-02.jpg

Nubuck has a very fine pile, recognizable when wiping over.

 

Teflonnubuk2.jpg

Nubuck can be waterproofed. In case of older leathers, the waterproofing properties decreases and drops start penetrating the surface.

 

Nubuck leather is mainly made from cowhides and calfskins. But also goat, lamb or deer skins are processed to nubuck. Nubuck is used for furniture, handbags, clothing and shoes. Only rarely for cars like the Z1 from BMW or the Maybach from Mercedes.


Nubuk-04.jpg Nubuk-03.jpg

Nubuck leather furniture.

 

Möbel-Leder-angeschliffen-02.jpg

Only slightly sanded leather (slightly nubucked) from www.leder-fiedler.de and furniture of www.marquardt-produktion.de.

 

Nubuk-BMW-Z1-01.jpg Nubuk-Himmel-BMW-01.jpg

Bubuck in the BMW Z1 in the back and side flanks. - Nubuck roof sky in the BMW|BMW E28 M5 from 1986.

 

Nubuk-Maybach-01.jpg Fahrradsattel-Nubuk-01.jpg

Nubuck leather glove compartment at the Mercedes Maybach. - Nubuck on a bike saddle.

 

The term "nubuck" might come from "buckskin". It is assumed that "new buck" coming from "buckskin" was shortened to "nubuck".


Embossed nubuck

Embossed nubuck is nubuck leather on which a coloured embossing has been applied with a roller. In the area of the colour application (the dark areas), the leather is then a pigmented smooth leather and in between (light areas) a normal nubuck leather. The embossing is always darker than the nubuck leather.

Embossed nubuck was widely used in the 80s and 90s. In the meantime, this type of leather is rarely found. Occasionly embossed nubuck is used for clothin and shoes. For cars it has never been used.


Ngepr1.jpg Ngepr2.jpg Ngepr3.jpg

Ngepr5.jpg Ngepr6.jpg Ngepr7.jpg

There are many different patterns. Nost typical is the natural grain optic of smooth leather.

 

Nubuk-004.jpg Nubuk-0001.jpg Nubuk-0002.jpg

Here, only the grain of a smooth leather was embossed without coloring into the nubuck.

 

A new variant of embossing and nubucking is the deep embossing. Therefore a pigmented smooth leather is deep embossed. Then, the protruding edges are abraded. The manufacturer points out, that the leather is not suitable for seat and wear surfaces. The edges wear too easily by use.


Nubukierte-Tiefenprägung-01.jpg

Optics of the nubucked deep embossing.

 



Suede

Suede is the name of two types of leather. One is the slpit leather (double-sided velor surface]]. The second is the uncoated flesh side of a smooth leather (reverse). In contrast to the very velvety nubuck, the suede is significantly rougher.


Velour-05.jpg

Velour-03.jpg Velour-01.jpg

Close-up of suede.

 

Veloursleder-Sessel-50er-Ja.jpg Veloursleder-Moebel-DeSede-.jpg

Velour-Leder bei Möbeln

 

The most common use of sueded leather is the use of sneakers as well as working gloves. In both cases, the protective function and the strong breathability of this type of leather is wished. Suede is very porous, and sweat can therefore very well pass through. As hands and feet sweat very quickly, this advantage plays an important role.


Turnschuhe-Veloursleder-001.jpg Veloursleder-Turnschuh-001.jpg

250px Lammfell-Pantoffeln-001.jpg

Sneakers often have surfaces made of suede. With lambskin slippers, the velor side (flesh side) is processed on the outside.

 

Arbeitshandschuhe-01.jpg

Bei Arbeitshandschuhen wird häufig Velourleder verwendet.

 

When gluing leather on car parts, the flesh side leather fibers are often pressed and glued down beforehand so that irregularities are not visible on the upper side later. The back is more even pretreated like this.


Velour-01.jpg Velour-gepresst-01.jpg

On the right the velor fibers were glued down and ironed.

 

Cleaning and care instructions


Colourlock-02.jpg -> COLOURLOCK - CLEANING AND CARE OF NUBUCK AND SUEDE FURNITURE
Colourlock-02.jpg -> COLOURLOCK - CLEANING AND CARE OF NUBUCK AND SUEDE SHOES
Lederzentrum-2016-08-Mini-viereckig-Rand-02.jpg -> In German: http://www.lederzentrum.de/tip/index.html www.lederzentrum.de]
Globus.jpg -> Rest of the world: partners worldwide


Videos

The cleaning of suede shoes.


Additional information


Colourlock-GB-03.jpg

WE UNDERSTAND LEATHER - WWW.COLOURLOCK.COM