Difference between revisions of "Bio leather"

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==Bioleder==
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<p align=center>
"Bio" ist kein klar definierter Begriff. Es ist die Annäherung an ein Idealbild eines Produkts, welches möglichst umweltschonend über alle Produktionsstufen hergestellt wird, dem Konsumenten nicht schadet und in der Entsorgung der Umwelt keine Probleme bereitet. Eine genaue Definition, ab wann ein Produkt als "Bio" bezeichnet werden kann, gibt es nicht.
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[[bild:Pflanzengerbstoff-03.jpg|500px]]
 
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</p>
 
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<p align=center>
==Bio-Leder - Gerbarten==
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''[[Vegetable-tanned leather|vegetable tannin]]''<br></p>
Manchmal werden [[Chromgerbung#FOC = Free of Chrome|chrom- und metallfrei]] gegerbte [[Leder]] auch als '''Bioleder''' bezeichnet, was aber irreführend ist, da [[Chromgerbung|chromgegerbte]] Leder bei sachgemäßer Herstellungsweise nicht als an sich gesundheitsbeeinträchtigend bezeichnet werden können. Meist wird der Begriff Bioleder im Zusammenhang mit pflanzlich gegerbten Ledern verwendet. Dies ist auch naheliegend, da sich "[[Pflanzengerbung]]" schon vom Wort her ökologischer anhört. Der Konflikt im Vergleich der dominanten Chromgerbung mit der Pflanzengerbung muss aber den gesamten Produktionsverlauf abgleichen.
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
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In wissenschaftlichen Untersuchungen im Vergleich dieser Gerbarten kam man zu dem Schluss, dass beide Gerbarten mehr oder weniger identisch ressourcenschonend bzw. ressourcenbelastend sind.
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Der Nachteil des Chemieanteils der Chromgerbung muss den Nachteilen der Pflanzengerbung gegenübergestellt werden. Die Nachteile der Pflanzengerbung sind:
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* Die Pflanzengerbstoffe müssen erst in fernen Ländern gewonnen werden (Bäume fällen und zermahlen).
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* Sie müssen über lange Transportwege per See mit hohem Treibstoffverbrauch zu den Gerbereien gebracht werden.
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==Bio leather - Organic leather==
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"Bio" does not have a clear definition. It generally describes a "green" ideal of a product that is made in as environmentally-friendly a way as possible,  does not harm the consumer and can be disposed of without damaging the environment. An exact ruling on how and  when a product can be called "bio", "biological" or "organic" is not available.
  
* Der Kiloeinsatz an Pflanzengerbstoffen pro gegerbte Haut ist deutlich höher als bei Chromgerbstoffen.
 
  
* Der Schmutzwasseranfall durch die deutlich höhere Anzahl an Gerbbrühen, die das Leder durchlaufen muss, ist bei einer Pflanzengerbung wesentlich höher als bei der Chromgerbung.
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==Bio-Leather - [[Tanning leather|Tanning methods]]==
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Sometimes tanned leathers that are [[Chrome tanned#Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome|chrome- and metal-free]] are referred to as bio leather. But this is misleading because [[Chrome tanned|chrome-tanned]] leathers are not a danger to health.  
  
  
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Bio-Leder-01.jpg|500px]]
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[[bild:ChromIII-01.jpg|500px]]
 
</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Ein pflanzlich gegerbtes Leder ist aufgrund der [[Gerbung|Gerbart]] weder automatisch weich, noch schadstoffrei.''<br></p>
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[[Chrome tanned|Chrome III]]''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
==Kriterien für Bio-Leder==
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The term bio leather is usually associated with [[vegetable-tanned leather]]. This is because "vegetable" sounds ecological and therefore suggests that a  product has been manufactured ecologically. However, when comparing chrome tanning with plant-based vegetable tanning, the entire production process should be taken into account and not just the source of the tanning agents.  
Die [[Lederherstellung]] ist die Umwandlung eines Abfallprodukts aus der [[Gerberei]] in ein haltbares, natürliches Gut. In diesem Zusammenhang werden diverse [[Lederherstellung|Produktionsstufen]] durchlaufen. Je nach Umweltauflagen und deren Kontrollen unterliegen die Gerbereien mehr oder weniger strengen Regeln. In den entwickelten Ländern kann davon ausgegangen werden, dass die Anforderungen an die Lederherstellung deutlich strenger sind. Der Großteil der [[Lederindustrie|Weltproduktion]] findet aber nicht in entwickelten Ländern mit strengen Vorschriften statt. Man kann aber davon ausgehen, dass die Lederproduktion in entwickelten Ländern die Umwelt stärker schonen. Entsprechend sind die Lederpreise höher. Aber für die Kennzeichnung als "Bio-Leder" reichen diese Anforderungen noch nicht.  
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A scientific investigation concluded that both these [[Tanning leather|tanning methods]] were more or less identical  in terms of resource-conserving and/or resource-sparing. The disadvantages of the chemical content of [[Chrome tanned|chrome tanning]] must be compared with those of [[Vegetable-tanned leather|vegetable tanning]]. These are:
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* Vegetable [[tannins|tanning agents]] must be extracted in distant countries (cutting trees, tannin production).
 +
* Delivering the [[tannins]] to the [[tannery|tanneries]] involves long sea voyages and high fuel consumption.
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* The consumption weight of plant tannins per tanned skin is significantly higher than with chrome tanning agents.
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* The [[Wastewater from tanneries|sewage water]] contamination resulting from the considerably higher number of tanning baths, which the leather has to go through, is much higher in vegetable tanning than with chrome tanning.
  
Folgende Gesichtspunkte spielen bei der Bewerbung eines "Bio-Leders" eine Rolle:  <br />
 
  
'''Komplette Rückverfolgbarkeit der Tierhaut''':  <br />
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==Criteria for bio leather==
- Wo wurde das Tier über den gesamten Lebenszyklus gehalten. Freiland? Stall- oder Käfighaltung? Weitere Lebensumstände? Z. B. wird Bioleder aus "100% kontrollierter, biologischer Tierhaltung" angeboten. <br />
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[[Leather production]] basically involves the [[tannery]] converting a waste product into a durable, natural material. This involves various [[Leather production|production]] stages. Depending on environmental requirements and regulations, tanneries across the world are subject to varying rules. In developed countries, it can be assumed that these rules are much more stringent. But most of [[Leather industry|world production]] does not take place in developed countries. It can be assumed that leather production in developed countries will be more beneficial to the environment. Accordingly, leather prices are higher. In any case, fulfilling these requirements is not sufficient for labelling as "bio-leather".
- Welche Medikamente wurden verabreicht? Ständige Impfungen und präventive Antibiotikaversorgung etc.?<br />
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- Wie wurde das Tier ernährt? Frischfutter? Aufbereitete Abfälle aus anderen Produktionen? Pestizidhaltig? Genmanipulation? Nachhaltig? <br />
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- Wie wurde das Tier geschlachtet? <br />
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'''Lederherstellung''':  <br />
 
- Arten und Mengen der Chemikalien mit kompletter Rückverfolgbarkeit der Produktionsketten ([[Gerbstoffe]], [[Lederfarbe|Farbstoffe, Bindemittel, Pigmente]], [[Fetten|Rückfettungsmittel]], um nur einige der eingesetzten Chemikalien zu erwähnen).  <br />
 
- Bei [[Pflanzlich gegerbtes Leder|Pflanzengerbstoffen]]: Nachhaltig? Nachwachsende Rohstoffe? Transportwege? etc. Oft wird Bio-Leder mit "planzlich gegerbt" beworben. Das sagt noch nicht aus, dass die Pflanzengerbung selber biologisch erfolgte (hier kann mit großem Umweltschaden gearbeitet werden) und es sagt auch nicht aus, dass das Leder [[Chromgerbung#FOC = Free of Chrome|chromfrei]] oder mit anderen Schadstoffen belastet sein könnte. Wobei die [[Chromgerbung]] nicht giftig oder richtig durchgeführt besonders Umweltbelastend ist. <br />
 
- Mindestlöhne, Sozialstandards etc. in der [[Gerberei]].  <br />
 
- Handhabung der Produktionsabfälle inkl. Weiterverwertung.
 
- Aufbereitung der belasteten Abwässer, die in jeder [[Gerberei]] anfallen.
 
  
'''Lederverarbeitung''': <br />
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The following aspects play a role in the naming of a leather as "bio leather":  <br />
- Ressourcenschonung, Nachhaltigkeit  <br />
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- Arbeitssicherheit <br />
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- Sozialstandards und Entlohnung <br />
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'''Complete traceability of the animal skin:'''  <br />
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* Where was the animal kept throughout its life cycle? Free-range? Barn or cage? Other living conditions?  <br />
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* What drugs have been administered? Permanent vaccinations and preventative antibiotic care etc.?  <br />
 +
* How was the animal fed? Fresh food? Recycled wastes from other food production processes? Pesticide-containing? Genetic manipulation? Sustainable?  <br />
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* How was the animal slaughtered?  <br />
  
The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether a "bio-leather" actually deserves this title at all points, the conscientious customer must determine himself. Since the term is not protected and the seals and certificates established by the industry do not always take into account all points, distrust is appropriate. The perfect organic leather is also not available in mass production. But there are plants that pay more attention to the environment than others.
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'''[[Leather production]]''':  <br />
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* Types and quantities of chemicals with complete traceability through the production chains ([[tannins]], [[leather colour|dyes, binders, pigments]], [[Oils & fats in the leather industry|oils]] and much more).
 +
* For vegetable tanning: Sustainable? Renewable resources? Transport routes? Often bio leather is advertised with "vegetable tanned". This does not mean that vegetable tanning itself was biologically carried out (it can be worked with great environmental damage) and it does not say that the leather could not be contaminated with chromium or with other pollutant chemicals.
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* Minimum wages, social standards etc. in the [[tannery]].
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* Handling of production waste including re-use.
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* Treatment of polluted sewage.
  
Die Summe der zu betrachtenden Faktoren ist sehr lang und ob ein "Bio-Leder" bei allen Punkten tatsächlich diesen Titel verdient, muss der gewissenhafte Kunde selbst ermitteln. Da der Begriff nicht geschützt ist und die von der Industrie festgelegten Siegel und Zertifikate nicht immer alle Punkte berücksichtigen, ist Misstrauen angebracht. Das perfekte Bio-Leder gibt es auch nicht in der Massenfertigung. Aber es gibt Betriebe, die mehr auf die Umwelt achten als andere.
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'''Leather processing''':  <br />
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* Resource conservation, sustainability
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* Work safety
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* Social standards and remuneration
  
  
<werbebanner />
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The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether any leather deserves the title of "bio-leather" - or not - should only be decided by the customer. The term "bio leather" is not protected and the certificates established by the industry do not always consider all points. The perfect organic leather can also never be mass produced. But there are [[tannery|leather producing]] companies that pay more attention to the environment than others.
  
  
 
==Additional information==
 
==Additional information==
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* [[Leather alternatives]]
 +
* [[Eco leather]]
 
* [[Vegan leather]]
 
* [[Vegan leather]]
 
* [[Leather quality]]
 
* [[Leather quality]]
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* [[Chrome tanned]]
 
* [[Chrome tanned]]
 
* [[Chrome tanned#Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome|Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome]]
 
* [[Chrome tanned#Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome|Chrome-free leather - FOC = Free of Chrome]]
* [[Peta|PeTA - People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals]]
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* [[PeTA - People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals]]
 
* [[Ecological leather care - Eco leather care]]
 
* [[Ecological leather care - Eco leather care]]
  

Latest revision as of 19:26, 18 April 2023

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


Pflanzengerbstoff-03.jpg

vegetable tannin

 

Bio leather - Organic leather

"Bio" does not have a clear definition. It generally describes a "green" ideal of a product that is made in as environmentally-friendly a way as possible, does not harm the consumer and can be disposed of without damaging the environment. An exact ruling on how and when a product can be called "bio", "biological" or "organic" is not available.


Bio-Leather - Tanning methods

Sometimes tanned leathers that are chrome- and metal-free are referred to as bio leather. But this is misleading because chrome-tanned leathers are not a danger to health.


ChromIII-01.jpg

Chrome III

 

The term bio leather is usually associated with vegetable-tanned leather. This is because "vegetable" sounds ecological and therefore suggests that a product has been manufactured ecologically. However, when comparing chrome tanning with plant-based vegetable tanning, the entire production process should be taken into account and not just the source of the tanning agents.

A scientific investigation concluded that both these tanning methods were more or less identical in terms of resource-conserving and/or resource-sparing. The disadvantages of the chemical content of chrome tanning must be compared with those of vegetable tanning. These are:

  • Vegetable tanning agents must be extracted in distant countries (cutting trees, tannin production).
  • Delivering the tannins to the tanneries involves long sea voyages and high fuel consumption.
  • The consumption weight of plant tannins per tanned skin is significantly higher than with chrome tanning agents.
  • The sewage water contamination resulting from the considerably higher number of tanning baths, which the leather has to go through, is much higher in vegetable tanning than with chrome tanning.


Criteria for bio leather

Leather production basically involves the tannery converting a waste product into a durable, natural material. This involves various production stages. Depending on environmental requirements and regulations, tanneries across the world are subject to varying rules. In developed countries, it can be assumed that these rules are much more stringent. But most of world production does not take place in developed countries. It can be assumed that leather production in developed countries will be more beneficial to the environment. Accordingly, leather prices are higher. In any case, fulfilling these requirements is not sufficient for labelling as "bio-leather".


The following aspects play a role in the naming of a leather as "bio leather":

Complete traceability of the animal skin:

  • Where was the animal kept throughout its life cycle? Free-range? Barn or cage? Other living conditions?
  • What drugs have been administered? Permanent vaccinations and preventative antibiotic care etc.?
  • How was the animal fed? Fresh food? Recycled wastes from other food production processes? Pesticide-containing? Genetic manipulation? Sustainable?
  • How was the animal slaughtered?

Leather production:

  • Types and quantities of chemicals with complete traceability through the production chains (tannins, dyes, binders, pigments, oils and much more).
  • For vegetable tanning: Sustainable? Renewable resources? Transport routes? Often bio leather is advertised with "vegetable tanned". This does not mean that vegetable tanning itself was biologically carried out (it can be worked with great environmental damage) and it does not say that the leather could not be contaminated with chromium or with other pollutant chemicals.
  • Minimum wages, social standards etc. in the tannery.
  • Handling of production waste including re-use.
  • Treatment of polluted sewage.

Leather processing:

  • Resource conservation, sustainability
  • Work safety
  • Social standards and remuneration


The sum of the factors to consider is very long and whether any leather deserves the title of "bio-leather" - or not - should only be decided by the customer. The term "bio leather" is not protected and the certificates established by the industry do not always consider all points. The perfect organic leather can also never be mass produced. But there are leather producing companies that pay more attention to the environment than others.


Additional information


Colourlock-GB-03.jpg

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