Difference between revisions of "Split leather"

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== Coated split leather - Laminated split leather ==
 
== Coated split leather - Laminated split leather ==
Damit Spaltleder eine pflegeleichte Oberfläche bekommt, wird es manchmal beschichtet. Insbesondere im unteren Preissegment wird der Kunde aber nicht darauf [[Lederkennzeichnung|hingewiesen]], dass er nicht das hochwertige [[Narbenleder]] hat, sondern ein preiswertes Spaltleder mit einer Folienbeschichtung. Leider sind die Reklamationsquoten bei den preiswerten, beschichteten Spaltledern sehr hoch und die Lebensdauer deutlich geringer als bei den Narbenledern. Insbesondere die in der Vergangenheit fälschlicher weise mit dem Begriffe [[PU-Leder]] deklarierten Materialien hatten oft [[Lederqualität|Qualitätsprobleme]].  
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In order to achieve an easy to clean and care surface or/and to let it look like a more valuable [[top grain leather]], split leather is sometimes [[Coated leather - Laminated leather|coated with a platic film layer]]. Especially in the lower price segment, the customer is not informed that he does not have bought a [[leather quality|high-quality]] [[top grain leather]], but an inexpensive split leather with a film coating. Unfortunately, the complaint rates are very high for the cheap, coated split leather and the life expectancy is significantly shorter than for top grain leather.
  
  
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''Die [[Leder|Pflichtdeklaration]] ist "[[Beschichtetes Leder]]", wenn die Schichtstärke der Beschichtung größer als 0,15 Millimeter ist.''
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''The obligatory declaration is "[[leather#The layer thickness and the ratio of different layers|coated leather]]" if the thickness of the coating is thicker than 0.15 millimeter.''
 
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'' Typische Optik [[PU-Leder|beschichteter Spaltleder]].''  
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''Typical optics of [[Coated leather - Laminated leather|coated split leather]].''  
 
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Eine ab 2011 neu erschienene Variante des beschichteten Spaltleders ist ein mit einem Textilgewebe beschichtetes Spaltleder. Laut Hersteller ist dann die Proportion 89% Spaltleder und 11% Fremdmaterial der Beschichtung. Bisher ist dieses Material unter den Namen '''Rodeo''', '''[[Pilotenleder]]''', und '''[[Tasan Leder|Tasan]]''' angeboten worden. Da das Material noch sehr jung ist, kann man außer der für Textilien ungewöhnlich starken Ausbleichung bei einem Fall beim [[Tasan Leder|Tasan]] noch keine Aussagen treffen. Die richtige [[Leder#Welche Materialien dürfen als Leder bezeichnet werden?|Deklaration]] für dieses Material lautet "Mit einer Textilschicht beschichtetes Spaltleder". Als "Echt Leder" darf dieses Material nicht angeboten werden. Es wäre eine [[Leder#Welche Materialien dürfen als Leder bezeichnet werden?|Falschdeklaration]] und ein Reklamationsgrund in den ersten zwei Jahren nach dem Kauf.  
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A new version of coated split leather from 2011 onwards is a split leather coated with a textile fabric. According to the manufacturer, the proportion is then 89% split leather and 11% other material of the coating. So far, this material has been offered under the names Rodeo, Pilot Leather, and Tasan. The correct declaration for this material is "textile-coated split leather". This material is not to be offered as "[[genuine leather]]". It would be a false declaration and a correct reason for complaint in a lot of countries.
  
  
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''Auf der Oberfläche ist eine textile Gewebeschicht aufgeklebt - [[Pilotenleder]] und [[Tasan Leder|Tasan]].''<br></p>
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''On the surface of suede is a textile layer of fabric. - Pilot Leather and Tasan.''<br></p>
 
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''[[Rauleder (Rauhleder), Wildleder, Veloursleder (Velourleder), Nubuk oder Nubukleder|Veloursleder]] mit einer [[Beschichtetes Spaltleder|textilen Beschichtung]] - RODEO''<br></p>
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''[[Suede]] leather with a textile coating: Rodeo.''<br></p>
 
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But there are more variants: Split leather can also be [[Leather lamination - Laminating leather|laminated from the back]] wiht fabric for stabilization reasons. From above it is [[finish|coated]] and [[Embossed leather|embossed]].  
Es gibt aber noch mehr Varianten. Spaltleder kann auch von der Rückseite zu Stabilisierung mit Gewebe [[Kaschieren|kaschiert]] werden. Von oben kann es dann beschichtet und [[Prägung|geprägt]] werden.  
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''Beschichtetes und [[Prägung|geprägtes]] Spaltleder mit einer [[Kaschieren|Testilkaschierung]]''<br></p>
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''[[Coated leather - Laminated leather|Coated]] and [[Embossed leather|embossed]] split leather with a textile [[Leather lamination - Laminating leather|lamination]].''<br></p>
 
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==[[Embossed leather|Embossed]] split leather==
 
==[[Embossed leather|Embossed]] split leather==
Als "[[Prägung|geprägte]] Spaltleder" werden Spaltleder bezeichnet, deren [[Rauleder|Velouroberfläche]] mit einer [[Zurichtung|Farbschicht]] überzogen worden sind und [[Prägung|geprägt]] wurden. Diese Spaltleder sehen dann aus wie ein normales [[Narbenleder]]. Die Qualität ist aber nicht so gut, weil das Fasergefüge von Spaltledern i.d.R. nicht so hoch ist, wie das von [[Narbenleder|Narbenledern]]. Es reißt leichter ein.  
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The term "[[Embossed leather|embossed]] split leather" refers to split leather, which has been coated with a color layer and embossed. These split leathers then look like a normal [[top grain leather]]. The [[leather quality|quality]] is not so good, because the fiber structure of split leather is not very strong and not as strong as top grain leather. The [[Tensile strenght - Tear strength|tensile strenght]] is much less.  
  
  

Revision as of 22:34, 16 February 2017

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


What is split leather?

If a skin is divided into several layers over the entire surface, this process is called "splitting". Thicker leather, mostly cow leather, which is 5 to 10 millimeters thick, is split. The obtained layers are designated as grain split or top-grain split and flesh split. Somtimes the leather is thick enough for a middle split. The split, separated from the grain split, is also called drop split. The drop-split leather is rough on both sides like the back of a leather.

When adjusting the splitting machine, the tanner must consider that the thickness of the skin is higher at this work step due to the water content of the wet skin. The water content of a wet skin is three times heavier than the dry weight of leather. Soaked with water, leather is therefore thicker. The tanner has to consider this difference in thickness when adjusting the splitting machine so that the desired leather thickness comes out when the leather is dry.


Split leather 001.jpg

The hide is split. Above is then the grain split and below the flesh split. Outside the tannery, only the flesh split is considered as "split leather"

 

The grain split is considered more valuable. The fiber structure is substantially denser in the upper layer of the grain side and is thus tear-resistant. The grain split is referred to smooth leather when ready tanned.

After leaving the tannery, the term "grain split" is no longer used. The leather dealer then uses terms such as "smooth leather", "aniline leather", "napa", depending on the leather type. The term "split" no longer appears in connection with the grain side. The drop split with the two rough sides is then no longer referred to as a "flesh split", but as a "split leather", "split" or "suede". In order to make the leathers more intelligible to the layman, this is an important separation of the choice of words in tanneries and in public. This makes it clear that the term "split" is always referring to the less stable lower layer of the hide.

As the quality of a split leather is lower then the top grain leather, ther are rules about the use of the terms. But the rules are different from country to country. Some countries don`t allow to label split leather as "leather". Some allow to call it leather but only when further details make clear, that it's a split leather.

It is indisputable that a split leather does not have the same quality features as a top-grain leather. If a split leather is coated in such a way that it looks like a grain leather, the end user cannot recognize the quality. The leather is then like a veneered wood of lower quality. The upper layer with smooth leather optic is then no leather, but a coating and the grain is created by an embossing.

Therefore, only labeling requirements are fair and aceptable from the end-user viewpoint, if split leather explicitly and clearly must be pointed out.


Video about the coating of split leather

Video about the production of plastic coated split leather.


Applications for split leather

Leather clothing

In the clothing sector porc split or goat suede are very common. Pig leather is generally somewhat stiffer and not as tear-resistant as a goat suede. Therefore, pig leather is mostly used for low price leather clothing.


Schweinsleder-01.jpg Ziegen-Velour-02.jpg

porc split - goat suede

 

Leather shoes

In the shoe sector, split leather is widely used for sneakers sports shoes because of its breathability.


Suede-shoes-01.jpg

Suede is very common for shoes.

 

Furniture leather

In the lower price segment of leather furniture, on contact surfaces (backs, seats, armrests) sometimes better leather is processed and for the rest (outsides, back of the furniture) coated split or imitation leather is used. In the very low price segment, somtimes the complete furniture is covered with coated split. Usually such leather is only declared with "real leather" and similar terms. Such furniture then has a reduced life expectancy and in some countries, if this happens to early (warranty period), the furniture can be successfully claimed.

For this reason, you should always ask what materials have been processed. Unfortunately, the declarations are very often wrong, especially when buying online.


Car leather

Even the vehicle manufacturers up to the higher price classes increasingly use coated or embossed split leather for the less stressed areas (door linings, headrests) without corresponding declaration. The buyer acquires in good faith a high-quality "leather interior" or "full leather trim" at a high surcharge.

Although no manufacturer infomes about processed split leather in their vehicles, companies specializing in split leather indicate that over 10 million steering wheels have been covered with split leather. Door linings, seat parts and other areas in the vehicle are also covered with embossed split leather.


Lenkrad-Teflonleder-01.jpg


Complete cow hides are over 5 square meters in size. The usuable area of the split leather for the automotive sector is the 1.5 square meter butt. This is the best part of the hide.


Spaltleder Autoleder 01.jpg


Split leather does not have the tear strength of a top grain leather. It is usually impossible to tear a top grain leather with hands in contrast to split leather.

An indication of the used material would be desirable in order for consumers to be able to distinguish the split leather from the higher quality leather.

In principle, split leather is also not a bad leather, if it is declared correctly and is produced or used for a Long-lasting use. 99,9% of the customers believe that the smooth leather steering wheel or door trim is the grain side of the leather, but in reality it is a coated split leather. Only a clear declaration would convey to the end customer in a comprehensible manner whether he had paid for a high-quality or cheap leather.

Therefore even with the high-priced brands should be asked, whether split leather was processed or higher-quality top grain leather. It can be confirmed in the purchase contract.


The splitting of leather

Spalten-Rindsleder-002.jpg Fleischseite-001.jpg

Image 1: Cow leather is at least split into two layers. - Image 2: Top grain leather with hair side.


Veloursleder-001.jpg

The drop split is rough on both sides. After leaving the tannery it is called "suede" or "split".

 

Spalten-01.jpg Falzen-01.jpg

Image 1: Splitting machine in the tannery. - Image 2: Thickness control measurement.

 

Processed split leather

There are many areas where split leather is the right choice. For shoes, clothing or bags, split leather is traditionally processed without problems. It is usually the furniture sector, where split leather is sold with a smooth leather finish, which leads to disappointments among the customers.


Turnschuhe-Veloursleder-001.jpg Veloursleder-Sessel-50er-Ja.jpg

Image 1: Split leather (suede) can be found in nearly every household in the shoe shelf as a sneaker. - Image 2: A suede leather chair from the 50s.

 



Coated split leather - Laminated split leather

In order to achieve an easy to clean and care surface or/and to let it look like a more valuable top grain leather, split leather is sometimes coated with a platic film layer. Especially in the lower price segment, the customer is not informed that he does not have bought a high-quality top grain leather, but an inexpensive split leather with a film coating. Unfortunately, the complaint rates are very high for the cheap, coated split leather and the life expectancy is significantly shorter than for top grain leather.


Spaltleder-Pu-Folie01.jpg PU-Leder-M-002.jpg

The obligatory declaration is "coated leather" if the thickness of the coating is thicker than 0.15 millimeter.


Pu1.jpg

Typical optics of coated split leather.


A new version of coated split leather from 2011 onwards is a split leather coated with a textile fabric. According to the manufacturer, the proportion is then 89% split leather and 11% other material of the coating. So far, this material has been offered under the names Rodeo, Pilot Leather, and Tasan. The correct declaration for this material is "textile-coated split leather". This material is not to be offered as "genuine leather". It would be a false declaration and a correct reason for complaint in a lot of countries.


Pilotspalt.jpg Tarsan-Leder-05.jpg

On the surface of suede is a textile layer of fabric. - Pilot Leather and Tasan.

 

Velours---Rodeo-01.jpg Velours---Rodeo-02.jpg

Suede leather with a textile coating: Rodeo.

 

But there are more variants: Split leather can also be laminated from the back wiht fabric for stabilization reasons. From above it is coated and embossed.


Pigment-Velours-Textil-Poren-geprägt-03.jpg Pigment-Velours-Textil-Poren-geprägt-01.jpg

Coated and embossed split leather with a textile lamination.

 

Embossed split leather

The term "embossed split leather" refers to split leather, which has been coated with a color layer and embossed. These split leathers then look like a normal top grain leather. The quality is not so good, because the fiber structure of split leather is not very strong and not as strong as top grain leather. The tensile strenght is much less.


Pigmentierung-gepraegt-003.jpg Pigmentierung-gepraegt-002.jpg Pigmentierung-gepraegt-001.jpg

Geprägtes Spaltleder und geschiffenes und geprägtes Narbenleder sind nicht ohne Weiteres unterscheidbar.

 

500px

500px

Eindeutig geprägte Spaltleder. Nach Anlösen der Farbschicht kommt Velours zutage.

 

Typical split leather damages

Spaltleder sind anfälliger für Schäden als Narbenleder. Insbesondere im unteren Preissegment gibt es oft Probleme. Da löst sich die Beschichtung, das Leder reißt ein oder wird im Bereich von Haut- und Haarkontakt klebrig und löst sich auf. Insbesondere die fälschlicherweise als PU-Leder beworbenen Materialien waren davon betroffen.


Spaltleder-Folienablösung-3.jpg Coated-split-leather-03.jpg

Spaltleder-Folienablösung-1.jpg Spaltleder-Folienablösung-0.jpg

Billige, beschichtete Spaltleder neigen oft zur Ablösung der Folie oder Farbschicht.


Abfärbungen von Leder und Farbablösungen auf Leder


PU-bricht-005.jpg Spalt1.jpg Spaltriss.jpg

Spaltleder reißen immer sehr faserig ein und sind auch deutlich anfälliger für Risse als narbenseitig verarbeitete Leder.


KFZ-Freshfall-Oldtimer-04.jpg Spalt2.jpg Möbel-Fußstellen-02.jpg

Bei beschädigten "Narbenledern" ist die Oberfläche in der ersten Phase des Verschleißes der Farbschicht glatt.

 

Additional information


Video about the leather production


The leather production in a modern tannery.


Process steps in the leather production
storage - soaking - liming - fleshing - splitting - pickling - tanning - neutralising - withering - sorting - shaving - dyeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring - drying - finish - softening - final check


Tanning methods
Chrome tanning - Vegetable-tanned leather - Synthetic tanning - Tanning with fats and oils


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